A Lake District adventure with (mostly) a wheelchair
Nev with Joe & Karel, April 14-21, 2024
Introduction
Joe had attended a 'half day release' from training as an Accountant in 1956 as had I.
In those days we had travelled together in Africa, Austria and other places. Joe figures in several places in my Blogs and stories on the website.
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Karel Willeman is Joe's partner and I had the privilege to be their Best Man, years ago.
In 2024 they asked if I would arrange a weeks trip to the English Lake District. I did. Although still fairly mobile, Jo, aged around 84, did benefit from the use of a wheelchair, and this was used for some part of each day. Fortunately I still had my wife's old wheelchair and this played its part.
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The idea was to show them areas of the Lake District that they were not familiar with. Together, they had visited the Eastern area around Ullswater, and been to Windermere, Ambleside, Bowness and Coniston, but not much more.
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In 2025 we had a trip to Scotland and in 2026 plan Yorkshire and the East Coast. (Watch this space).
Day 1: Blackpool to Langdale Valley. Monday 15th April, 2024
Our expedition set off around Monday lunchtime from Blackpool. Joe and Karel had arrived in Karel's car from Belgium, travelling by sea to Hull, then, via Oldham, and a night at Jo's brothers, to Blackpool.
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Last night, Sunday evening, we had had a tasty Indian Meal at “Zest of India” over Squires Gate Bridge for which Andrew and his wife Julie, joined us.
Indian Beer was tried, and four main courses were shared between us with a fruity Na-an Bread, which had been preceded by poppadoms and various pickle tray items.
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After the meal Andrew dropped the three of us at the nearby “Dunes Hotel” where discussion and speculation about the trip took place.
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The car was duly loaded. We had an overnight bag and a back up case each, and a rather large supply of wine (about 15 bottles!). Marjorie's “Old Wheel Chair” took up some space, and was taken “just in case”.
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The plan had been to go to a cafe for Monday breakfast, but on raiding the kitchen cupboards we found enough cereal, toast, bananas etc. to enjoy a snack before setting off.​
Moving on, we soon had a view of the first Lakeland Hills and of Windermere Lake. At Windermere we headed for Bowness which is situated about half way up the Lake.
I dropped Joe and Karel at the Boating Booking Office, the idea being that they would get a launch to Ambleside, whilst I drove the car and met them at Ambleside Jetty. Before I could drive off, the duet stopped me to announce that, due to the high winds, no boats were sailing today.
Driving northwards alongside the Lake from Bowness to Ambleside we came across an obstacle in the form of a long queue. This was caused by a motor accident, and we were delayed about half an hour. Fortunately the hold up was at a place where we had good lake views to the Langdale Pikes.
En route, we had just passed the Cragwood Hotel where Joe and Karel had stayed previously, and the newly renovated Langdale Chase Hotel where we all had great memories of David and Jeannette's Wedding.
At Ambleside we took the Langdale Rd for a mile before turning off to access Bog Lane, a very narrow lane parallel to the main road.
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This led eventually to Skelwith Bridge. After about a mile we turned into Skelwith Fold Farm. Here there are 4 static caravans. One is owned by Penny and one by Nev/David.
Penny met us and we handed over the large bag of kindling wood we had brought to drop off with her. She already had a lively fire pit going, and we sat around for a while for a chat and a drink.
A Castle to Start With​
The weather was cold and windy, with heavy, intermittent showers.
Our route took us along the M55 to Preston, then North on the M6. We took the Lake District exit and made a short detour to Sizergh Castle. Here we visited the cafe, for Pea Soup, before walking the grounds.
The Castle was not itself open but the grounds were interesting, albeit fairly small.
There was a very large rockery, and an unusual “stumpery” being an area where tree stumps had been arranged with ferns etc.
The Penny Drops with Penny
Penny showed Karel & Jo round her van, pointing out the toilets, wash facilities, fridge etc. Next she showed them the beds, and it was then that the first penny dropped. This caravan was to be their home for the night!​
It had been intended to hold a BBQ, but the weather was cold and windy, with heavy showers, so Plan B was adopted. This involved a drive of about a mile to The Skelwith Bridge Hotel. (Nev and Marjorie had stayed here on their honeymoon in 1966).
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We took the “short route” which was a little more precarious if you happened to meet any oncoming traffic. We enjoyed a good meal in the Talbot Bar of the Hotel, with Gammon, Steak and Ale Pie & Sea Bass being the favourites.
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On return to the Caravan Site it was still sleet and drizzle. We visited an on-site wood store for dry supplies, and enjoyed some time with another roaring fire before retiring to Nev's Van for a game of cards. I slept that night with a smug grin!
Jo & Karel slept in Penny's Van and Penny & Nev in Nev's Van.
Donald's dog, (now Penny's), Eric, was with us and had a restless night.
Day 2: Langdale Valley to Muncaster Castle Coachman's Quarters. Tuesday April 16, 2024
The sheep, now sorted, were returning past us, to the field, to graze.
As if we were Royalty we were treated to an Ariel Display of around a dozen fast flying jets. These appeared from nowhere, one at a time.
The noise was deafening, and some flipped over as they sped past at several hundred miles per hour, and at a height of less than 500ft.
We debated the political correctness of them creating so much noise in what was a peaceful National Park. But the shear noise was awesome!
Penny got the day off to a flying start around 10am. by cooking a full breakfast on her outdoor BBQ and we ate this outside whilst yet another Fire burnt merrily in the fire pit. The weather had improved and it was now sunny, albeit still a bit breezy.
The Farm is a working farm and there was much activity with the lambs, as lambing season was only mid-way. Giles and helper (the farmers) were in the large metal barn, separating those sheep that had two lambs from those that had only one.
They were also dealing with a number of orphans who required special feeding techniques. Where possible they would try to persuade one of the sheep with just one lamb to adopt another. Three was too many. We talked to Giles about the cost of hand feeding, and soon learnt that these hand fed lambs made no profit.
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A short stroll of about 20 yards took us into a field with an unobstructive view of two of Lakeland's most well known hills, The Langdale Pikes.
There were great views of Coniston Old Man which was once the highest point in Lancashire at 2633ft prior to the absorption of this part of Lancashire into the new County of Cumbria.
John Ruskin's house was passed and the Lakes connection with the film “Swallows & Amazons” explained. We also visited the site where Campbells Bluebird crashed.
Today was calm and sunny, and, after visiting the jetty for Torver, (no need to stop as no one there), we made our way back to the start point.
Joe & Karel on Coniston with Normal Neville's trademark figure in the picture!
Leaving the Farm we proceeded past the Skelwith Hotel once again and took the road to Coniston. On nearing the Lake, Jo and Karel tried to figure out exactly where they had stayed on their previous visit here.
Recently, just two weeks ago, Sir Malcolm Campbells “Bluebird” racing boat had finished its restoration and been reinstated into Coniston Museum.
Our wet weather programme would have entailed a Museum Visit. However, the sun was shining and Coniston Lake beckoned.
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The National Trust Steam Ship “Gondola” was not running, following yesterdays wild weather, so we took the small regular launch on a 45 minute ride around the North and Central parts of the Lake.
On disembarking, we decided on a short walk northwards along the lake shore, to a Caravan Site called Piers Cottage where Penny loves to stay. A number of wild flowers were in bloom, including Wild Garlic, Wood Anemone, Gorse and Broom. We had to pick a dry route after yesterdays rain.
We next made for the “Bluebird Cafe” situated on the shore line, and well patronized by ducks, geese and the occasional swan. We obtained good seats overlooking the lake and after hot chocolate/soup/cakes, or similar, it was time to leave Coniston for pastures new.
Our route took us through Woodland to Broughton-in-Furness, where we parked up for a few moments in the Square. In the 1850's Marjorie's Great Great Grandmother had run a pub here, “The Black Cock”. Her Licence instructed her to avoid “Cock and Bear Bating”, and not to open on a Sunday.
We passed a smart looking pub named the Pennington after a local family. In passing, Karel commented, again somewhat hopefully, that the Menu looked good.
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We walked along the grassy verge alongside the local rivers channel to the sea. Several Green Metal Benches looked inviting, but the terrain was a little rough, so we opted instead for the front garden of a local Pub where we ordered beers, and sat outside.
On an adjacent bench & table were two smart young men possibly in their twenties. One smoked a giant Cigar, and Nev asked the other why he wasn't smoking a Pipe, to complete the image of yesteryear smokers.
After some discussion and banter it transpired that the two boys apparently owned a Pub/Hotel in Dalegarth, a few miles from here down the Eskdale valley. (The Brook House Inn). We guessed that they had had a private education.
From here we soon crossed the River Duddon where Wordsworth wrote some of his poetry. Then it was on to Millom, passing the flanks of the local volcanic mountain Black Coombe.
We were now virtually on the West Coast as we made our way Northwards. In due course we passed the main car park and Main Gates to Muncaster Castle. Karel commented, hopefully, and wistfully, that there was a castle and gardens here.
Neville just grunted and drove on the two miles to the small settlement of Ravenglass. This had once had a high Roman occupation, and, until the early 1900s, had been a prosperous small port for Sailing Vessels.
We walked down the main street to where it ended by dipping onto the marsh, heralding the sea. There was a large black gate here which was closed at High Tide to keep the village from being swamped.
After a short exploration on the beach we retraced our steps along the main street. At the front of one house was a large collection of boxes and bins. Each was full of plastic items.
One contained hundreds of plastic discarded lighters, another had discarded beach shoes, yet another contained radio attachments from Met Weather Balloons.
The cottage owner had been collecting plastic waste for a year or so, and had a display so all to see just what ended up in the sea after being discarded. He had recently appeared on TV with his collection.
It was now time to move on again, so we left Ravenglass and retraced our steps passing once again Muncaster Castle.
But only half a mile past before we turned into a narrow lane leading into a courtyard. Our accommodation for tonight was revealed. It was the Coachman's Quarters at Muncaster Castle.
On booking in we made our way into the building by a flight of stairs to the first floor. We had a “family” room comprising one room with a double bed and a second room with three sets of bunk beds.
Cleverly folded towels, representing an elephant, a deer and a bear adorned the beds.
It was soon time to seek somewhere to eat. Nev had discovered a new internal route to the car park. Firstly through a self catering kitchen, then a dining room, then a lounge, then, finally a motorised stair lift that allowed Jo to ride in style to the ground floor.
Our quest for food took us back past the Castle entrance and a return to Ravenglass. Unfortunately we were not able to access the route to the Old Roman Baths, due to lane closures and a bridge closure.
We headed instead for a Pub adjacent to the main railway line serving Barrow to Carlisle. It was called “The Lael Ratty” after the Miniature Railway that ran adjacent to the main line station, and down the Eskdale Valley.
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We obtained indoor seats adjacent to the Main Railway Line which were designed as if you were actually sat in a carriage. It was quite cosy. In due course food and, of course, drink were procured and a good time was had by all.
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Returning to the Coachman's Quarters we prepared for our second night away, but not until the requisite amount of self supplied wine had been devoured.
Occupation of the rooms allowed us free access to the Castle and its extensive grounds.
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Muncaster boasts the biggest variety of Rhododendrons in the UK.
Day 3: Muncaster Castle to Ravenglass Pennington Arms. Wednesday April 17th, 2024
At £5 for the day this was tremendous value. Although he wished to walk as much as possible, the wheelchair did extend the amount of walking that could be done.
An Owl display was then enjoyed. Some of the birds were much larger than you thought, whilst the smallest was only the size of your fist.
Next, we walked/rode to the Castle Main entrance gates followed by a return via a Sino/Himalayan path with somewhat steeper terrain. Nev and Karel had a go on the electric scooter.
During the rest of the day we enjoyed two further bird displays with larger birds of prey this time, such as Eagles and Hawks. We also walked the famous terrace with the most amazing views of high mountain scenery.
Free admission to the Castle itself was also enjoyed, plus a visit to the new “Knightly Combat” feature with jousting, cross bow and axe throwing. It was expensive and more suited to stag nights.
A further visit to the Cafe was made, for coffee and cakes. We all chose a different cake and requested the waiter to cut each cake into three identical slices so we could each have a share of each cake!!
Karel wondered why I kept asking for the latest weather forecast for tomorrow. All would be revealed in due course.
At about 5pm we left Muncaster Castle grounds and headed back towards Ravenglass. About half way there we turned down a small lane which, after about half a mile, led us to the site of the Roman Baths.
Despite the aid of a display board and the fact that the remains are apparently the tallest remaining in the UK, the visit, though interesting, was not too inspiring. A few well placed notices might have helped.
Anyway, Baths visited, we again entered Ravenglass to our accommodation “The Pennington Arms”. This was the hotel were Karel had read, and approved of, the Menu the previous day.
After booking into our “Family” room (a clean & roomy double room plus a Twin bedded room), we adjourned to the bar for a short while, before entering the very busy Dining Room at our allotted time of 6.45pm.
meal was good, despite the raucous noise caused by a table of girls possibly on a hen night!! Amazingly we opted for an early night, as we had an 8.45am breakfast and a 10am departure deadline tomorrow.
In the morning we discovered that the on site cafe was opened for residents from about 9am, before the main gates were opened to the public at 10.30am Karel had porridge with blueberries I think, whilst Jo and Nev had avocado & egg on toast. Next we made our way to the entrance to the Owl Sanctuary where Joe was inducted into the pleasures of an electric wheelchair ride.​
Day 4: Ravenglass to Wasdale Head Hotel, Wastwater. Thursday April 18th, 2024
We made the breakfast deadline and, with Jo ready, Karel just missed the 10am deadline by about one and a half minutes. After a quick frown, he was forgiven.
We drove only about 300 yards before turning into the forecourt of the Ravenglass & Eskdale Miniature Railway. The day's first train was at 10.25, hence our urgency to get off to an early start. We booked tickets & walked on to the platform.
After inspecting the engine, we boarded our allotted carriage.
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The coaches were a mixture of Fully Open, Open Sided but with a Roof and Fully Enclosed. It now became obvious why I had kept asking Karel for a weather update.
Acting on his information I had reserved an Open Carriage for our outgoing journey, and an Open Sided with a Roof for the return leg. This proved a good choice as it was fine going and light rain on the return.
Our destination was to the end of the line, at the quaint little station of Dalegarth, about half a mile short of the village of Boot, about half way down the Eskdale Valley.
The ride took about 45 minutes and left us with time to visit the Dalegarth station cafe, (teas and coffees for us), with its attractive little gift shop. Karel splashed out on named Mugs.
Views from the train were first class as you could almost touch the flowers and the vegetation, and the line gave excellent views of the surrounding hills, which got bigger as we went along.
We passed a few small stations such as “Irton Road” and “Eskdale Green”. Part of the line was also by the estuary at Ravenglass. This received the River Irt, River Mite and River Esk. The railway itself ran firstly by the Mite, then by the Esk, passing an Old Mill and Muncaster Fell.
In due course, finding ourselves back at Ravenglass Station, we had a decision to make. Either head to Wasdale for a walk, or head to Whitehaven. As it was now wet, and looking like the rain had set in, we opted for Whitehaven, being about a 20 mile run northwards along the A595, via Gosforth and Egremont. We also passed close to the Sellafield Atomic Power Station which had just started the process of being decommissioned.
Once in Whitehaven we parked up next to the Marina and walked half a mile or so round the harbour to the Beacon Museum. Like most Marinas, it was full of mainly small boats, but with little signs of any activity.
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The Museum was on several floors, and some exhibitions had just finished, There were numerous “hands on” features including a “virtual” visit down a Coal Mine. Whitehaven had been a big centre for Coal Mining and was one of the UK's largest ports in its day.
An old game of Draughts was played by myself and Jo, and a winning verdict was deferred as we were unsure of all the rules.
One large exhibition featured Sellafield, and an ex employee had been appointed to give visitors inside information. He said that closure had resulted in over 1,500 redundancies, mainly Whitehaven people. However, the decommissioning process had meant a large number were returned to work. The site was currently one of the largest redevelopment areas in the country.
Returning to the car we now plotted our route to Wasdale Head. This would entail retracing our steps as far as Gosforth where we stopped at the Church to view a delicate 900 year old Scandinavian Mythology Cross, about four and a half metres high.
By the time we reached Wasdale Head it was wet and cloudy, with all the high peaks being covered by cloud. Wasdale is famous for having England's Deepest Lake, Smallest Church, Highest Mountain and Biggest Liar (the landlord Will Ritson from the early 20th Century).
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Having settled in to our room with a great view, (when you could see it), we visited the bar for drinks and a meal.
Numerous beers were on offer including a rather black Stout. Wine was not long in being forthcoming, and, Surprise Surprise!! the wine time extended into the bedroom. Most evenings we had booked a family room, being a much cheaper option that two seperate rooms.
It looked higher because we were viewing it from virtually sea level.
Karel disappeared once or twice to mini explore and take pictures. We enjoyed a flask of coffee whilst we sat and admired the several miles of Scree on the hill across the Lake.
We then motored on through Nether Wasdale, then passing once again through Gosforth. Taking the A5086 we passed through Cleator Moor and Frizzington en route for Cockermouth.
We had been thinking of visiting Maryport with its famous aquarium and its views of the Solway Firth and the Scottish Coast, but we decided that time was against us. This being so, we turned south again on the B5292 then B5289 until we passed Crummock Water then Lowes Water.
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Arriving at Buttermere Village and Lake, we missed the turn to our Hotel, but soon found it, tucked between Lowes Water and Buttermere Lakes. The Buttermere Court Hotel had previously been called the Fish Hotel, and I remembered it from those days.
Having secured free parking, and braved a rather muddy short walk to the Hotel Visitors Entrance, we visited our rooms, again with a view, before following our traditional route to the bar, quite a large one, again with views.
Day 5: Wastwater to Buttermere Court Hotel. Friday April 19th, 2024
The day was bright and sunny with perfect views of the surrounding hills. Great Gable was prominent. After breakfast Karel visited the small gift shop, which sold Magnets. We then decided on a walk which was to prove more difficult than we expected. Firstly we took a grassy path from the Inn to Wasdale Church (St Olaf's).
The Church was open and we took advantage of the pews for a short while. Next came leg 2, being another grassy lane running deeper into the head of the valley, at Burnthwaite Farm.
Leg 3 of the walk, the return route, was the hardest. It was a supposed path but it was full of uneven stones, and crossed and recrossed a small stream at least four times by newly constructed new timber bridges.
In between the bridges you had to pick your way through boggy marshland, but eventually we made it back to the Wasdale Head Hotel. The views today were uninterrupted and quite spectacular.
Leaving the hotel, we drove to Wastwater Lake, and then another mile or so before parking up where we could get our first real glimpse of Scafell Pike, England's highest mountain at around 3210ft, just over 1000 metres.
The Lake was calm and the day sunny. Ideal for such a venture. We called at one or two jettys picking up and dropping off walkers.
On disembarking at our start point we used the facility of a local cafe for Hot Chocolate/Ice Cream. Chocolate drinks choices were 50%, 70% and 80%. Unusual!!
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Skimming round the outskirts of Keswick we made for the small village of Braithwaite where the Royal Oak Hotel stood ready to welcome us.
It was busy with all of the outside, and most of the inside, tables already taken, mostly with people eating. We had an issue booking in as the manager advised us that he only had ONE room booked for Wiseman.
I advised him that it was Two rooms and produced the booking acknowledgement from the car. He then realised that they had requested the name of the second room occupant, which was “Oliver” and he did indeed have a room in that name.
He juggled the meal times to find us a slot, but even then we had some time to wait. No matter, the bar was opened and duly supported. A nice meal followed in due course. As did a nice evening.
Day 6: Buttermere to Royal Oak Hotel, Braithwaite. Saturday, April 20th, 2024
After breakfast we decided to walk to the end of Buttermere Lake. More accurately, Jo, on this occasion opted for a ride in Marjorie's wheelchair.
We had been warned that the path along the North Lake Side was not suitable, so headed to the South side as far as the lakes exit stream. Everyone seemed to have a dog or a child.
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The view down the perfectly calm lake was spectacular, with Honister Crag dominating the far end.
The abundance of lambs drew Karel's cameras attention, and he took yet another 20 lamb shots.
Leaving the Hotel Car Park we now headed alongside Buttermere Lake to make the steep ascent of Honister Pass. At the high point we pulled over onto the Honister Slate Mines Car Park.
We had been considering the “Mine Tour” which, though a little physical for Jo, might just have been an option. Karel enquired about the tour times and they didn't quite fit our plan so we headed on down the far side of the pass to Rosthwaite Village.
This was within a mile of Seatoller, the wettest place in England, which interested our resident meteorologist. Passing the Victorian Hotel of Lodore we followed the shore of Derwentwater Lake to the Car Park by the Theatre.
Parking was impossible, and half a dozen cruised round and round looking for a spot. Some had Theatre tickets yet could not get parked.
In desperation we parked on double yellow lines near the blue car park ticket machine. We purchased a parking ticket and left it on the dashboard with a note that we were wheelchair users. It was fingers crossed.
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We now walked the short distance to the Boat Launch Site, and booked tickets for an around the lake cruise.
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I explained our parking predicament to the owner of the boats and he solved our problem by suggesting that we park on the shingle by the boats, (for free). Karel removed a metal bollard to allow me access.
We had booked the round trip for 2/10pm and it took about 45 minutes.
“Skiddaw” stood dominating the northern skyline, The Lake District's 4th highest hill, Our next port of call was Castlerigg Stone Circle, which we found after a false start.
Day 7: Braithwaite to Blackpool. Sunday, April 21st, 2024
We were off at 9am. The Royal Oak did not do breakfasts but there were two cafes within 100 yards. We chose Jaspers where we had bacon sandwiches (Porridge for Karel).
We then drove home, for 4pm. There was one last small surprise.
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A visit to a St Annes “Carvery” had been arranged and attending, apart from us three, were David and his team of 3, Penny and her friend Leslie, Andy and Julie. So 11 of us in total.
Departure Monday April 22nd
After a quiet morning Jo and Karel headed of to Hull for the overnight boat back to the continent. Thus ended a tremendous week!!
The circle is very impressive, and complete. It is situated on a raised plateau, making it the highest ground for several miles in every direction.
Again the surroundings were dominated by Skiddaw and Blencathra, Causey Pike, the Catbells, and the Northern end of the Hellvellyn Range.
With the trip all but over we headed for home via Thirlmere, Grasmere, Rydal and Windermere Lakes.
Having just skirted Kendal we turned off into the entrance to Levens Hall. We parked up at around 11.25am where we sat for about 5 minutes. At that time a car of waving people appeared. It was David, wife Jeannette and two young boys, Frankie and Jamie.
They had arranged to meet us here (obviously unknown to Jo and Karel).
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We toured the grounds, again making use of Marjorie's Chair. Levens is particularly famous for its Topiary, with trees trimmed to all shapes and sizes. An ideal venue for the boys to play hide and seek.
A “Ha Ha” prevented cattle/sheep/horses gaining admission to the cultivated areas. We finished our walk around with a pleasant coffee and cake in the cafe courtyard.
