Chapter 8: 1965
Africa 1
Solo trip aged 26
Following in Brian's footsteps, a short time after Jo qualified he too decided to work for the same Accountants as Brian, but based in Northern Rhodesia at Lusaka.
This led to me deciding that I should take up on the promise I had made to Brian Downs. When he had broken his leg near Grasmere in December 1962, and whilst waiting for the Rescue Team, we had discussed the possibility of my visiting him when he started working for Accountants in Southern Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe).
Three years on and it was an even better idea. After all, there were now three contacts in the area, as both Brian and Jo now lived near to my widowed Aunt Mary Vinson who resided at Salisbury,
Southern Rhodesia with her two sons, Donald and Peter. Mary had married my mothers brother Hughie Vinson.
And so, on May 15th 1965, it was “Off to Africa”. Full details are in the book I wrote about the trip.
The first day, Saturday, started for me at about 9am with me sat at my office desk in Queen St, tidying up the last few loose ends. Hugh Tootell was my partner and I could rely on him, and Neil Murray, my Articled Clerk, to hold the fort.
As I would be away about 10 weeks it would be nice to try to leave an empty desk. By 11.35 I decided that I might be cutting it fine, as I had to travel to Manchester, check in, and be ready for the 4.20pm flight to London.
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Needless to say, I drove home to 57 St Lukes as quickly as I could. Too quickly as it happened, as I was stopped for speeding on Whitegate Drive, and given a ticket Another half hour lost.
Eventually I made Manchester, still in reasonable time, thanks to Wally Crellin who ran me there. Wally was my elderly mentor and Group Scout Leader over the last 8 years or so at St Marys.
Landing in London, I next boarded a VC10 to Salisbury (Now Harare), the capital of Southern Rhodesia. After stops at Rome and Nairobi we touched down at Salisbury at lunchtime next day to be met by Aunt Mary, Peter and Jo,
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After lunch at Marys I went out for a car drive with Jo. We visited Mazoe Dam and moved on to an area of Orange Groves. Fraternising with Black Africans was very taboo in those days, but Jo had struck up friendships with several.
Parking up by a formidable fence around the Groves, Jo located a breach in the wire (he had been here before) and we climbed through.
A few hundred yards through dense planting brought us to a clearing and a large Nissan, metal hut. Inside were about 100 Africans, drinking from old paint pots and other similar disused tins and containers.
It was a Sunday, the one day of the week that the workers were allowed off, although even then they were rarely allowed to leave the compound. After been greeted by someone Jo vaguely knew, we were invited to a drink. It was like thick porridge.
I think it was a millet beer. Quite strong.
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It wasn't long before a foreman approached us and advised us we shouldn't be there and we had to follow him to his office. This turned out to be a small shed, and, once we entered it, he quickly exited, closing and bolting the door behind him as he said “I go to get policeman!!”
Not what you really wanted to hear during the first few hours of landing in a strange Continent. Many of the Africans were looking through the window and pointing and laughing. It was a little daunting.
Jo retrieved a packet of cigarettes from his pocket and waved them at the faces through the window. This turned out to be a good idea, as someone soon unbolted the door and demanded a cigarette.
The mob behind all joined in the clamouring. They all wanted a cigarette. “When I say run, run” was Jo's advice, and I eagerly followed it as we both hurried across the dirt clearing, into the orange groves and through our gap in the fencing, with Jo throwing a cigarette over his shoulder now and again to distract the crowd. What a start!!!
Needless to say we just told Aunt Mary we had been out for a nice, quiet, ride!!
After a day seeing the sites of Salisbury, including Lakes, Hills and a Tobacco Auction, it was time for Brian to arrive in his Wolseley. We were headed for Cape Town and back, an exciting jaunt of about 6000 miles.
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Zimbabwe Ruins then a Dance Competition in Johannesburg
May 18th saw us at the Zimbabwe Ruins (after which the country was shortly to be renamed), and the next day was a simple 500 mile drive into South Africa, and on to Johannesburg.
On May 23 we motored about 300 miles to Kimberley where we visited the famous Big Hole. This the place where De Beers mined their Diamonds. We did the tour.
At Jo'burg we visited a Gold Mine and saw an Ingot being poured. It was ludicrously heavy. We also, on a Sunday, witnessed the very competitive Tribal Dancing performed by the 10 different tribes who worked at the mines.
This was held in at outdoor arena, with tiers of seating for spectators. Each tribe had their own traditional dances. This was a weekly ritual, and taken quite seriously.
Many had provided themselves with accoutrements to embellish their performance. Tennis Racquets, Shovels, Sticks, Brushes etc were all part of their act. One of the more flamboyant ones, for example a black albino, with a barrel of a stomach and wearing stripped pyjamas, would be team leader, making this known by furiously blowing a rather shrill whistle whilst trying vainly to choreograph his teams performance.
When it was time for the next Tribe, there was usually a brief hiatus, as the previous dancers didn't want to stop, and the new arrivals wanted on stage early.
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We also visited the Voertrekker Monument at Pretoria and an Ndebele Village where the ladies wore rows of beads at their neck, lived in mud houses, and sold souvenirs to any passing tourists.​
Once or twice this trip I tried my non-artistic hand at sketching!!
Capetown & Observing Apartheid
One thing that was very noticeable on the trip was Apartheid. Rhodesia and South Africa were still White Controlled, and the Natives were treated very much as second class citizens.
For example:
Large Stores had two entrances. The main entrance was marked “For the use of whites only” whilst a minor door was marked “Blacks”.
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In the Recreation areas and Parks there were benches overlooking lakes and views marked “These seats are for the use of whites only”. Other seats with a view of the Gasworks were marked “Blacks only”.
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We travelled on a local bus in Cape Town. It was empty so we entered and sat down. “You cant sit on that side of the bus, That's for Blacks. Whites sit on the other side”.
“But there is no one else on” we protested. “ It don't matter. Sit on the other side”.
Another couple of days, passing wine growing areas, and we were in Cape Town. Here we took the Cable Car up Table Mountain, drove round the Cape Peninsula, walked the beach etc.
Taking The Garden Route heading for Durban
The feathers made dusters. The meat made “Biltong” whilst the skin made shoes and bags. The giant eggs were equal to several duck eggs. They were also incredibly strong, which I demonstrated by standing on one.
Ostrich Riding was the local substitute for horse riding.
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Kango Caves made an exciting excursion. It was more like pot holing as you had to lie flat and squeeze through narrow tunnels during the one and a half mile exploration.
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Passing Port Elizabeth we called in at a Snake Park, Performing Dolphin Oceanarium, Pyramid Monument and Addo Elephant Park.
This was the first real sighting of a Game Reserve and we saw our first real helping of Elephants, Buffalo, Rhino, Antelope etc.
We now started to move up South Africa's Eastern Coast, better known as the “Garden Route”. First up were Hermanus and Cape Agulhas, where the Indian Ocean meets the Atlantic.
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At Oudschoon we visited an Ostrich Farm There were about 300 such farms in the area, containing 70,000 Ostrich.
From Durban Northwards Meeting my Namesake and Going to School
Umtata and East London led us on to Durban. We visited the Oribi Gorge and the Transkie (land of the blanket people). The women carried heavy loads on their head, smoking long, thin, pipes, and could be seen happily doing their washing in the local streams.
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In Durban we had a Rickshaw ride, and, donning the heavy headgear the owner was wearing, I gave him his first ride ever in his own Rickshaw.
Ever Northward we passed through Sugar Plantations and the Valley of 1000 Hills before hitting Mtubatuba. We found out that there was a local Scout Group meeting that night, so went along.
It was run by Rev Hardwick who operated the local Mission School. After the meeting, and feeding us, he asked if we would like to stay the night and visit his School tomorrow.
Next day, after a quick look around the one roomed School for 100, we accepted the task of erecting large Notice Boards all round the room.
Our moving large boards and hammering did not seriously interfere with the six teachers all teaching the 100 kids at the same time, in the same room.
We stayed another night and met Mr Wiseman, a Sugar Farmer!! We were up early to finish the Boards and to move on to a nearby, large, Game Reserve, famous for Rhino, called Hluhluwe.
Rhino Encounter at Hluhluwe (pronounced Shushlui)
Accommodation was in special small mud built circular buildings called Rondavals. We hired one for a night or so, and it came with its own Cook, Luxury eh!!
In Hluhluwe you could hire a guide who knew all the animal names, their habits and stories.
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We saw Impala, Nyala, Giraffe, Wart Hog, Wildebeest, Zebra, Black and White Rhino, Monkeys, Baboons, Crocodiles etc.
At one point we got rather close to a sleeping Rhino. He woke up. Stood up. Glared at us, and, from about 50 yards, took a step towards us.
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We turned to our guide for advice, but HE HAD GONE! He was already about 20 yards away, beckoning furiously. Needing no further prompting we briskly followed and in the hurry I ran into a decidedly prickly Gorse Bush.
The Rhino fell over in a fit of laughter whilst I nursed my deep scratches for several days.
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Whilst based at Hluhluwe we had a day at St Lucia Game Reserve where the Missionary had kindly arranged for a Warden to meet us and take us on his launch through the Reserve, as it was largely swamp based.
To Krugar National Park with my new Cine Camera
Further North, having passed through Swaziland, we entered Krugar National Park, probably Africa's most famous Game Reserve.
Having had several Hyena circle our car whilst we ate our lunch, we decided not to get out to photograph them.
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Throughout this trip I had been taking Cine Film. Full colour, but no sound. This was a fairly recent invention. You sent the film away to be developed and then viewed it by using a Moving Projector, much like going to the Cinema.
It was better than the Black and White photography where you had a celluloid film to insert in your camera, took 20 photos then took the film to Boots Chemist who sent it away to Kodak for developing.
A week later you called in the Chemist for your pictures. You just hoped they turned out OK. Not like today when you can take 100 and save just 1 all in a few seconds.
By 2020 the old cine films quality had unfortunately deteriorated somewhat.
Anyway, after Krugar, we were soon back in Salisbury.
Fishing from Trees & Meeting Locals
A couple of days later Jo picked me up in his VW Beetle. We were to head for Victoria Falls, via Kariba Dam which had only recently been completed and whose waters were not yet at full level.
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At the Dam we walked its walls and then hired a “Gillie” with an 8hp outboard to do a spot of fishing in the Lake. There were many giant trees still standing in the Lakes waters, so we left the dinghy and climbed a tree and did a bit of tree fishing. Another first!!
That night, at the Kariba Hotel, we met several people in the bar, and we joined them for a few drinks. There was a Gold Mine Foreman, a Tobacco Farmer,and a Boiler Inspector.
After a bawdy evening and sing song we somehow found our beds which were situated in a small Rondaval in the hotel grounds.
A Car Incident in Zambia
Crossing into Zambia, but still on the shores of the Lake, I mentioned to Jo that Brian's Wolseley would probably do 70 on this dirt road stretch.
Jo replied that his VW would easily do that, and, putting his foot to the accelerator, proceeded to prove his point.
I think he had just reached 70 when the car left the road and fell down a 6ft embankment, turning on its side as it did.
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When it came to a stop I thought it was on fire, so encouraged Jo, who was now on top of me, to get out.
His door was buckled but he wound down the window and hauled himself out, using my face as a levering point.
I quickly followed, to find that the smoke was in fact only sand and dust caused by the car scraping along on its side.
We were fortunately not injured in any way. Hauling the car upright again, it obviously was not drivable.
So Jo hitched to the nearest village and organised car rescue. We later found that it would cost £200 to repair it. (That's about £3000 at 2020 prices).
Whilst waiting for Jo to return, a police car stopped and we had a chat. The policeman, an African, was on the way to quell a riot.
He was obviously in no hurry, stating that it was best to let them fight it out for a while so that the steam would have gone out of the fight by the time he arrived.
Hitch Hiking to see Victoria Falls from the Air
​So that still left us to get the rest of the way to Victoria Falls. It took five lifts in fact to get us there.
We enjoyed a morning small aircraft flight to get spectacular Ariel views of the mile wide falls, with spray from its 300ft drop billowing upwards like steam.
Impromptu trip for Aunt Mary & Sons
Hitch-hiking our way back to Salisbury we stayed over at Brian's residence in Lusaka for a night.
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Once in Salisbury it became apparent that Aunt Mary and her sons had never themselves been to the Victoria Falls, so, using her car, we set of again to remedy that default.
Calling in at Gwelo we picked up Donald much to his surprise and that of his headmaster.
Returning to Victoria Falls for the second time within a week, and after having again viewed the Falls from a number of vantage points, including another short flight, we drove a short distance to Robins Camp Rondavals at the Wankie Game Reserve, particularly known for its large Elephant herds.
We saw plenty plus a herd of about 500 Buffalo and many Impala, Giraffe, Kudu etc.
Farewells after Hippo Related Reprimand
After a few final days in Salisbury it was time for goodbyes. Jo had collected his repaired car, and duly arrived to drive me to the Port of Beira via the beautiful area called Inyanga, (staying at Troutbeck), and the Gorongosa Game Reserve.
At one point we were in trouble with the wardens as we disturbed a horde of about 100 Hippo whilst being out of the car (not allowed!).
On Monday 5th July I boarded SS Uganda at Beira, sharing a room with an Irishmen and an American Missionary, a nice mix.
I note from the Ships programme of events that I was one of five passengers on the Passengers Committee.
Strike leads to Bonus Birthday Trip with Inadvertent Risks
For the next five days we sailed up Africa's East Coast, via Dar-es-Salaam and Zanzibar, before docking at Mombasa. The news was that there was some kind of Strike and we would be here three or more days.
Some short day excursions were being organised but they all sounded a bit tame, so I decided that, to celebrate my 26th birthday, I would like to visit the Tsavo Game Reserve, one of Kenya's most famous.
It is about 14,000 square kilometres and contains the big five:- Elephant, Rhino, Buffalo, Lion, Leopard.
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I thought that hitch-hiking again might be fun. My first lift was from an Indian who bought me a Coconut, drink of tea and a Samosa.
He dropped me near a pub so I went in for a drink, meeting an African who worked on the docks but also owned a Coffee Farm. After buying each other a drink he organised me a lift with two of his African friends.
One owned a Pub and the other was a Government Official helping regulate the Cashew and Coffee Marketing Board. Its amazing who you met when hitching.
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Anyway they took me about 70 miles and dropped me at the small town of Voi, where I stayed the night.
Next morning I started walking along the wide Dirt Road towards Tsavo Game Reserve. It guessed it would be only about 10-15 miles or so. After about an hours walking, an open backed Ranger Truck pulled over, and we had a chat.
I was shown tracks of various animals in the dirt road, including Lion and Elephant, and advised that people did not usually just walk in to the reserve.
They gave me a lift and we stopped at their mud hut for a brew. One had been in Scouting and recognised my belt buckle.
“Come with us” they said, walking out of their hut into deep vegetation. After about 200 yards they stopped and started calling and shouting. What was happening?
After about 2 minutes a baby elephant cautiously approached. “Orphan. We look after” they said. Then, as if on cue, another noise approached and a baby rhino appeared.
The two Wardens were looking after these two orphaned animals by making sure that they were fed. I wished I had brought my camera.
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Here I was, in a remote area, with an arm around each of the two Africans necks, with an elephant searching me for goodies and a baby rhino gently butting me, also on the lookout for food. It would have made one of my best ever photographs.
Three years later I was to receive a letter from one of these “boys” (pictured).
A Magical Night and Memories Going Home
I eventually made the Safari Lodge, but opted to sleep in a tent by a Lake, which was cheaper and closer to nature. The instructions were to brail up the tent walls, leaving me just protected by a mosquito net.
With a full moon, this arrangement provided me with all round visibility. Their advice was: “Take a potty and don't go outside in any circumstances as elephants and worse prowl this area for water during the night”.
Elephants did indeed trundle past on a number of occasions, with other things slinking about in the gloom.
I saw my only Gerenuk (a long necked deer) and Dik Dik (the smallest, almost cat sized deer).
The full moon was a massive bonus.
Next day, accepting a welcome lift back to Voi where I caught a local bus, bursting at the seams with humanity, cargo, animals, chickens etc.
A small boy was selling sticks of wood with what looked like chewed, split, ends, for about half a penny. They were for use as toothbrushes, and I bought one.
The fare was 38p for the 100 mile ride, and I was the only white on the bus, an unusual experience for me.
Back on board ship, with a few hours to spare, I relaxed back into a more leisurely lifestyle. Meals, films, deck games, chats at the bar, watching the African Coast slipping by.
For the next week, the only thing of note was that, after stopping at Aden, and as the ship sailed up the Suez Canal, it was possible to dash to Cairo and visit the Pyramids and Bazaars and Museums before catching up with the boat later.
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Crossing the Med, Mount Etna was prominent, but when we arrived at Marseilles on July 26th it was game over for me. I flew back to the UK from here, saving about a weeks sail.
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I had a head full of memories, a cine camera full of film, and a note book full of stories.
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I was reunited with my Speeding Ticket.