Extracts from Chapter 38 of 'Our Lives' Book: 2004
Trucking in Kenya & Tanzania
Marjorie and myself explore Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Zanzibar & Masai Mara
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This trip was the year after our Bushcamps/Botswana adventure with Peter and Pat Bevan.
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In mid September we made a fairly late decision to do another Africa trip. We set about sorting out a holiday to start three weeks later, on October 3rd. It was a bit short notice.
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Last years trip had been organised with a lot of help from Paul Goldstein. Paul was a Director of Exodus, owned a Game Camp in the Masai Mara, was an internationally recognised photographer, and had spent his honeymoon in Bushcamps last year whilst we were there.
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We now wanted to spend another three weeks in Africa, and we had found that October was a good month for midges, weather and game spotting.
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A brief exchange of e-mails saw us booked on a two week Exodus trip in Kenya and Tanzania to start on October 3rd, followed by a week in the Masai Mara Game Reserve commencing October 18th.
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The Exodus holiday was based on a very large converted truck. It had massive storage facilities, to cope with the needs of about 18 passengers.
It had to hold personal kit, cooking and camping kit, and food and accessories for a fortnight. We have a picture of the group. Unfortunately we ourselves are not on it as I took the picture and Marjorie is mysteriously missing!
Our journey started at Nairobi, and headed North along the Great Rift Valley. Lake Naivasha was the first major port of call. It is the highest Lake in the Rift Valley, being at 6000ft. It covers an area of about 50 square miles and is surrounded by swampland. It is a big destination for bird watching.
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Amongst early “spots” were Fish Eagle, the impressive Secretary Bird, Ibis and Hoopoe. By the lake is a house called Elsamere which was the home of Joy Adamson and her husband.
They were famous for their study of Lions, and one Lion, ”Elsa” in particular. Joy wrote a famous book about Elsa entitled Born Free, which I had read.
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Close by was the small game reserve of Crater Lake where we saw plenty of Zebra, Impala, Giraffe Eland etc. Colobus and Vervet Monkeys were in abundance,
At the campsite we were reunited with our good friend “The Long Drop”. This was, of course, the toilet facility and I leave it to your imagination.
Moving on we visited another Rift Valley Lake. This was the 18 sq. mile Lake Nakuru. It is, like many others in the area, a Soda Lake. As such it is particularly attractive to the Flamingo, one of the few creatures that can tolerate the acidity of the water.
They get their colour from the nutrients in the water, and they are here in their tens of thousands.
We also saw Tawny and Crested Eagles, Baboons, Waterbuck, the tiny Dik Dik and at least a dozen Rhino.
We now moved on, passing from Kenya to Tanzania, soon to be on the shores of the mighty Lake Victoria. Covering 27000 Square Miles it is the second largest freshwater Lake in the World. ( v. Lake Superior USA).
Here we camped on the beach at Musoma and had a stroll down the main street which was full of small makeshift, single storied shops.
Serengeti
The famous, eagerly awaited, Serengeti lived up to its reputation for wild life. We spotted 24 different animals including Lion, Cheetah, Hyena, Elephant, Topi etc.
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Birds included Kori Bustard and Goliath Heron.
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Our whole journey was through virtually uninhabited terrain, with an occasional mud hut as a reminder that people actually lived here. Villages were generally just a few scattered buildings, and Townships were virtually non existent.
At one point, the truck stopped to allow a pride of 14 Lions to cross the road, strolling at a leisurely pace. The great Ngorongoro Crater was our next destination, one of the worlds greatest game viewing areas.
We drove round with wildlife in sight at all times. A herd of 300 Zebra, hoards of Buffalo, Hippo in every deep pool, Monkeys scratching through Elephant Poo!
​The big beasts do not fully digest their food. Everyone, animal and human, keeping both eyes open for the Lions.
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At one point we parked up near a small lake the size of Stanley Park. A pride of Lions were snoozing at one end whilst small quantities of game kept risking drinking the water round the edges at the far end.
Three lioness decided to hunt.
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They split up and stalked an Impala, trying several different tactics: strolling nonchalantly, crawling slowly, making a rush. They were unsuccessful. Had they succeeded then the Male would have sauntered over to commandeer the kill for himself.
​​​As it happened the Male got bored of waiting and took over the hunt himself. He took a very wide circuit of a bunch of young Impala and laid down and waited patiently.
When he deemed the opportunity ripe he suddenly rose and leapt forward, racing at top speed towards the wary antelope. They scattered, but two took to the water.
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This unfortunately hampered them, and the lion rushed into the shallow lake and managed to pin one down. Having broken its neck he carried it ashore with a disdainful look at his females, whose job it was to hunt for him. He resumed his sleep, with a large paw and a watchful eye protecting his prize.
No one else would be allowed near until he had eaten himself, not even his cubs.
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Other sightings included Monitor Lizard, Crocodile, Banded Mongoose, Ostrich, Gazelle, Hyrax, Hartebeeste, Serval, etc.
Camp Practicalities
We took turns at camp chores, including washing up. Plate wafting was the norm for pot drying, as tea towels would soon become unhygienic.
One side of the vehicle opened up as a kitchen with burners. The tents were two man, with room to sit up. Each tent was numbered so that you had the same tent each night which you erected and dismantled yourselves.
Further driving brought us to the Marangu Hotel at the foot of Kilimanjaro. We camped in the hotel grounds and enjoyed their takeaway facility and bar.
The Hotel acted as a kind of Base Camp for the Mountain. Crops were grown hereabouts, and included Banana, Coffee and Sisal. We visited a local school where they had about 300 pupils, but no toilet facility. We made a donation!
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A local market was colourful and inexpensive. Dealers just spread sheets on the ground and displayed their wares.
A Taste of Zanzibar
Another drive brought us to the coastline of the Indian Ocean at Dar-es-Salaam. A short ferry ride took us to a sandy campsite with coconut palms and a glorious sandy beach.
​Next day we sailed to the small Island of Zanzibar where we were transported to a remote beach with a new chalet complex with an idyllic sandy beach. There were small huts selling food and hot snacks.
The locals were busy catching fish with small boats and large nets. Our two bedded chalet was home for the last two days of our trip.
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From here we visited local Spice farms and enjoyed fresh coconuts. A local man attached himself to us and took us a guided tour of the town on the island, Stone Town. All too soon it was time to fly back to Nairobi.
​Behind the bed was a full width curtain, and behind the curtain was our bathroom.
It did not of course have a bath, but it was blessed with a shower, flush toilet and a cold water sink.
In the mornings you were awakened by a polite tap on the tent pole advising you that there was a flask of boiling water to make a brew, and a canvas bucket on a stand, filled with hot water for washing and shaving.
There were deck chairs on the patio mat. A short walk through the bush took you to the camp centre where a large open sided tent was furnished with a long wooden table and chairs which was to be our dining area.
The Masai Mara Adventure begins with some style and a bang
We arrived Nairobi on the Sunday afternoon in good time for our flight next morning to the Masai Mara Game Reserve, famous for its migrations of millions of animals. Our hotel for the night was quite upmarket, and we were surprised and delighted to learn, on arrival, that we had been upgraded to Room 1.
This was obviously the doing of Paul Goldstein who had helped us put the holiday together and who owned the Game Camp where we were to spend the next week.
Apart from a spacious room with viewing balcony we had a side room fully equipped with computer etc, unfortunately all a bit wasted on me!
We were scheduled to fly from Nairobi smaller airport, but rumours abounded in the evening that a bomb had exploded there, so flights were in doubt. Just what you wanted to hear!
As it turned out, the explosion had been a large Calour Gas Cylinder that had got too much sun!
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Our plane was a 60 seater, a bit larger than we had used last year to Bushcamps. The landing strip was a stretch of sand and earth, and we had to circle twice whilst a pair of elephants were persuaded to amble in another direction.
On arrival we were met, and driven to the Kicheche Mara Camp, our new home.​
The camp was managed by Andy and Sonia and over the next week we were to get to know them well, with Marjorie forging a quite close relationship with Sonia who had been having some problems and who found Marjorie a constructive listener.​
We were allocated a large tent with a double bed, table and small wardrobe. The bed faced the tent door, which was mostly brailed open, with mosquito netting for evenings.
The view looked straight out at an area of flat plain over which animals wandered about at random.
Bush Ride Sightings
Before bed we enjoyed a Bush Ride in one of the 4x4 vehicles we were to regard as home each morning and evening. These were the times of day that game were most active.
Our evening ride was fruitful as we saw many Buffalo and young lying down and grazing, Topi and young, Giraffe and young, all at close quarters. Giraffe have to spread their legs very wide to allow their long neck to reach water.​ They are particularly vulnerable at this moment.
Animals took no notice of vehicles. Finally we saw three lioness with a following of 7 lion cubs slowly walking to their sleeping place.
Apparently they often return to favourite sites, and tend to have their own “patch” for hunting, sleeping and generally living.
As the sun set, a storm was visible in the distance with spectacular lighting and loud claps of thunder. It didn't affect us as, at 7/30pm we rounded of our day with “Sundowners”.
We turned into bed to find that a hot water bottle had beaten us to it! Lights out!
Jaw Dropping Hippo Story!
Next day, Tuesday, we were up bright and early. The early morning ride showed us the wealth of game and bird life in the area. We saw a giant Bull Elephant ripping up great clods of grass and pushing a tree over so he could reach the juicy untouched higher branches.
A family of elephant walked past each holding the tail of the one in front, with the babies holding on for dear life behind. A Hippo emerged from his pool and flattened the grass as he waddled away.
They usually keep to the water during the day, regularly opening their huge mouths and apparently yawning.
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In fact, there is a good reason for this mouth opening.
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When God made the earth he intended that the Hippo would be land based. The Hippo complained that he would be far too hot, having a surplus of blubber.
God explained to the Hippo that he was afraid to make him water based, as he would eat all the fish. The Hippo promised to eat no fish, provided he could live in the water.
Eventually God agreed, but only on condition that the Hippo regularly opened his mouth really wide whilst looking at the sky. This would enable God to check that no fish were in the Hippos mouth!
True stories are great!!
Observations of Game Behaviour
A cheetah lazed on a mound with two cubs jumping on her back. Crocodiles were sunbathing and playing dead. Vultures and Maribu Stork were dealing with leftovers from a Lion kill.
Small Oxpecker birds were getting a free ride on the back of Eland and Zebra. In return they pecked away at the insects and flies on the animals hide.
A troop of Baboon whooped their way from tree to tree before descending for a drink. The younger ones played tig with each other, and generally annoyed the adults.
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Bird wise we were treated to sightings of Black Shouldered Kite, Augur Buzzard, Saddle Billed Stork, Woodland Kingfisher, Ground Hornbill, and countless more.
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We had an early lunch in the shade of a clump of trees, disturbing some resting Gnu, otherwise known as Wildebeest.
In the evening things continued in a similar vein. A young Jackal stood stock still for a couple of minutes, weighing us up, and then we watched a Leopard for quarter of an hour as he put his head down and stalked some Impala.
However he mistimed his run and the Impala got away. The big cats have the power and the speed but can only keep their top speed up for a fairly short period.
An Added Twist to Dancing with the Masai Warriors
On Wednesday we were again on an early start at 6.30am. Birds were in abundance this morning, including White Billed Bustard, Pelican, Bateleur Eagle, Little Bee Eater etc.
Animals again included three glimpses of Leopard, and our now familiar Cheetah on their mound. Breakfast was taken by a pool, watching Hippo snorting and grunting as they do.
We had a boiled egg, cold sausage, bread roll with jam and a mug of coffee.
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After lunch we visited a Masai Village and were invited into their mud houses. They gave us a dance demonstration which seemed to just consist of jumping up and down.
I joined in and added a bit of variety by jumping on one leg, then the other, then turning completely round etc. If you should see Masai Warriors using these innovations then you will know whom to thank!
There was of course another game ride that evening.
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All Creatures Great and Small & Time for Waste!
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The following morning we enjoyed a Bush Walk with Andy the Camp Manager.
He made sure that we kept well away from the danger spots and inducted us into the life of the smaller creatures and insects. We watched as a Funnel Spider carefully dug a pit with steep sloping soft sandy sides. He had a cunning plan!
When small prey ventured over the rim of the pit, the loose sand made them slide down to the bottom of the slope, where a tiny hole soon produced the spider.
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We also learned more about the information to be gleaned from animal dung.
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For example:-
Hyena dung is easy to identify as it is always white. This comes from the calcium. With their powerful jaws they can chew bones that other animals find difficult.
We were reminded that when we were younger the local butchers often “gave a dog a bone”. So UK dog poo used to be white.
We purchased some bags made of beads and then moved on to a Rhino Sanctuary.
Hippo dung consists of thousands of pellets scattered over a large distance. This is because the Hippo has poor eyesight but a keen sense of smell. When he leaves the water to go foraging, (he is a vegetarian), he likes to leave a trail that he can follow to the water on his return.
So, as he walks along he produces a fairly constant flow of poo which, using his short but heavy tail, he scatters left and right behind him as he moves along. This ensurers that he has a wide scent trail to follow on his return.
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The Porcupine is a delicacy for some of the cat family. To try to hide his scent and his whereabouts the crafty porcupine chews a pile of grass then pushes it up his bottom. This prevents him from leaving a trail of poo for the cats to follow. When the need arises he unplugs, performs then re-plugs.
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Some of the mature male antelope always return to the same spot to perform, resulting in quite high mounds of poo. When they find a lady that they fancy, they take her to their treasure chest, and allow her to have a good sniff.
Her inspection tells her how fit and virile her suitor is. Somehow I don't see that catching on in Blackpool!!
A Hair-Raising Cheetah Tale
We were enjoying all this from the comfort of our 4 seater 4x4 when the female Cheetah slowly rose and started to walk towards us.
It then took half a dozen strides and leapt on to the car roof. This was OK except that the car roof was open, leaving only a small bit of metal over the front seats.
The driver just said “Keep calm. Stay still, she is just using us as a vantage point as we are the highest ground around”. At one point her tail came through the open space above us and virtually tickled our noses.
I can assure you that we kept very still as she sat and turned her head in each direction. After about 5 minutes she jumped down and returned to her cubs. This was a not unusual encounter apparently.
Wow!!. Hearts beating at around 150, we eventually moved on.
As we continued our walk, Andy pointed out lots of animal tracks and signs and signals that they had left behind. The week was sliding by, and it was already Friday.
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Game drives continued, with something new around many a corner. We saw Vultures circling, indicating a kill. They usually kept around the fringes, waiting till the owner of the kill had finished or was getting negligent.
When we arrived at the scene the Lion (Lion tracks!) had left the kill and wandered off a few yards to rest before returning for more. This was an invitation to the queue to move in.
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About 30 Hooded White Backed Vultures descended and started stripping away pieces of flesh, with several Jackal ignoring them as they also got stuck in.
It was not a pretty sight, but its how nature exists. Generally speaking the prey tends to be the weaker of the species, encouraging natural selection.
A one month old elephant trundled past squealing as it sought to catch hold of its mothers tail.
Within a mile we came across the family of Cheetahs we had spotted several times this week.
They were occupying mothers favourite small hummock.
Wildebeest Crossing
We had a picnic stop alongside a 30ft wide river near to a ford that was clearly marked by having been flattened on both banks by thousands of feet, claws, hoofs etc.
This was apparently one of the major river crossings used by thousands of migrating animals. Equally it was one of the strategic points used by crocodile to wait for easy prey, usually an animal that stumbled or got pushed over or paused for a fateful second or two.
We watched as a three mile long column of Wildebeest arrived. Their leaders stopped and stood still, weighing up the width and flow of the river and the density and activity in the river.
There were trees along the bank, obscuring the view, whereas looking away from the river all you could see were miles and miles of flat dusty earth with little cover.
Eventually the leaders decided the time was right, and led the charge across the trap. Fortunately for them, and fortunately for the lunch we had just eaten, the hour we were there resulted in no casualties. We moved on, partly thankful that there had been no incidents, and partly wishing that there had been. Such is human nature!
An Intimate Flight
Apart from things like a Saddle Billed Stork successfully fishing, 60 elephants and young enjoying a bath, 2 lazy male Lions snoozing under a giant log, and about 100 Guinea Fowl haggling over a stray piece of prey, the afternoon and evening passed quickly.
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Our remaining time flew past with an ever increasing tally of weirdly shaped and wonderfully coloured birds, and many more game viewings.
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Finally, time to go home. We waited at an earth runway by a tin shed whose faded lettering suggested that this might be an INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT. In due course a small 10 seater plane landed. The only staff either at the landing site or on the plane was the Pilot.
He put the steps down and opened the bonnet. Checking our tickets he placed our baggage under the bonnet before closing it again. Putting the steps back up he squeezed back to his seat and we were off.
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As we flew at a low altitude (as we had another pick up in about 10 miles) it was fascinating to see the Bush and the wildlife from this vantage point. The pilot called back “There are refreshments in the bowl at the back” indicating that there was a bowl of hard boiled sweets on offer.
The picture above shows the exact sort of 4x4 we used, and an identical plane, but it shows two pilots whereas we had only one.
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We had another bushcamp pick up which entailed flying low for a mile or so, giving great arial game spotting!
Landing at Nairobi small airport we were greeted by half a dozen Africans all carrying raised, open, umbrellas as it was raining slightly.
They escorted us to the Terminal, from where we took a taxi to Nairobi's International Airport where we had about 6 hours to wait for our plane home.
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We joined a crowd of about 50 Africans huddled round a small TV screen. They were cheering on Manchester Utd. Nearly home!!!
Before take off, our bags were thoroughly examined, but no one asked to see into the rucksacks that we carried.