Chapter 37: 2003
Africa 4
Zambia, Bush Camps and Botswana
In 2003 we decided to visit some of the African Game Reserves, and Peter and Pat Bevan agreed to accompany us.
After discussion with a man called Paul Goldstein from Exodus Travel we had booked an Exodus Trucking Holiday to Botswana, and he had been able to arrange for us to spend a week, at very reasonable rates, at a Game Camp in the Luangwa Valley.
This entailed serviced, tented accommodation with all meals, all Game drives, Game Walks, choice of Camps etc.
I have written a 60 page booklet about this holiday, so I will confine this report to a minimum.
After titbits and a beer we were off again on a night drive aided by a searchlight held by a guide whilst our driver kept the vehicle out of trouble.
We did quite a lot of off road, and even the roads were just sandy ruts.
Bush Camps
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Bush Camps is the name of an organisation that operates in the Luangwa Valley, one of the worlds most prolific Game Reserves.
They have a fairly permanent base at Mfuwe, where Elephant wander through reception and Lions saunter past the tents.
From this base, they control about half a dozen smaller, seasonal camps, situated anything from 20 to 50 miles away, each camp set in a stunning location and staffed by as many people as are staying there.
Two daily game drives are laid on, early morning and late afternoon. These are supplemented by Night Drives and Daytime walking Safaris. We stayed at Bilimungwe Camp, Mfuwe Lodge, and Chindeni Camp.
The first morning saw us on a Bush Walk by 6.30am. This was a warden led single file walk into the Bush. Leading us was a Ranger with a loaded rifle, just in case.
His job was to keep us away from dangerous game, and to take care of any animal that looked too interested in us.
Second up was a Guide, and his job was to look after the punters, to point out all the interesting features, large and small, and to ensure that, in any emergency, we were told what to do.
Then came the guests, sometimes just the four of us, and at the rear was the Tea Boy who carried drinks and snacks and acted as a “whipper in.”
Apart from seeing much small game we were shown animal tracks and how to identify them. Also, such things as where a Lion had been sleeping just two hours ago, how to calculate an elephants size by its footprint, tree markings that gave a clue to the animal by the height of the markings.
We learned about Termite Mounds, Warthog Dens, and the use made by Dung Beatles of Elephant Dung.
The only threat came from a lone Bull Elephant who started in our direction waving his massive ears and snorting. Our lead guide stood his ground, jumping and shouting until, thankfully, the Elephant backed of, stamping and snorting about our intrusion.
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After a lunch break we set off, at 3.30pm on the evening game ride. We were in 4x4 Jeeps which seated 4 people. As we were a team of 4 anyway, we had the whole car to ourselves.
We spent an hour sat on chairs in the middle of a 100 yard wide shallow river, watching Elephant and Giraffe crossing.
We enjoyed a full week of such days. The list of animals we saw was impressive. Highlights included a Leopard walking slowly past the vehicle, numerous Lions and their Cubs, Crocodile, scores of Giraffe and hundreds of Hippo.
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There were sometimes as many as 4 vehicles out at any one time. Each day we went out saying “We couldn't possibly match yesterday”, and yet, every day was special...
On one walk our lead guard did a huge jump from a standstill. He had nearly trodden on a huge Puff Adder. If there is ever an Olympic event for “High jump with a Rifle” then our money would be on our man Kelvin!
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We saw all the Big Five. This is the term for spotting Lion, Elephant, Leopard, Rhino and Buffalo. Strangely Hippo is not included.
Most Bush Living people regard Buffalo as the most dangerous as it doesn't have much of a brain. Other animals tend to steer clear of humans, though Hippo can be fast and ferocious if you get between them and their young.
We got quite good at recognising the variety of animal poo and suggested that guides could concentrate on the “Bottom 10” instead of the “Big Five”.
Our accommodation was in spacious tents with a loo and cold water, with food served centrally at a temporary wooden structure. Meals were brilliant and wine and beer was available in the evening.
Fab Food & Big Five
Often we had a picnic whilst out driving. Once we drove round a small mound to find, on a riverbank, that a full hot meal had been prepared on a dozen stoves, with multiple choices.
More amazing spots, and feathered wonders
Another evening drive brought sightings of Civet, Genet and Porcupine, but the stars of the show were the two leopards we stalked by vehicle.
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It was nearly time to leave when we enjoyed two avian spectacles. By the River, using holes in the bank for nesting were hundreds of Carmine Bee Eaters, with red chests, and clouds of emerald Lillian Love Birds. On arrival we had been given a checklist of 176 birds of which we had seen well in excess of 100!
Zambian Zambesi Spectacle & Into Botswana
After two flights on light aircraft we were on the banks of the Zambezi River, at Livingstone. From here we visited the world famous Victoria Falls and had great views.
At certain times of the year the water flow is so great that a wall of spray conceals the falls and they cannot actually be seen.
A short taxi ride took us across the Zambia/Zimbabwe border to enable us to meet up with the Exodus Holiday leaders.
Our safari vehicle had 4 rows of 3 plus driver and spare front seat.
​We soon crossed into Botswana and the Chobe National Park. Mr Fish, our driver/guide informed us that in Chobe alone there were about 60,000 Elephants.
He himself was heavily into bird spotting, and our bird count eventually reached the levels experienced at Bush Camps.
These Game Reserves were nothing like the safari parks we have at home. Firstly the size of the areas devoted to Wild Life is on a vastly different scale and secondly the animals roam completely free.
Elephant, Lion, Antelope, Crocodile, Rhino, Buffalo and over 50 other mammals all intermingle with no fences or barriers of any kind to either separate them, or protect you.
The two largest Botswana reserves are Chobe and Moremi, although there are others. These two cover an area of about 10,000 square miles which is a greater area than the whole of Wales (8000 square miles).
In the UK, Longleat Safari Park, apart from segregating all the animals is only about 14 square miles.
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In the Botswana Reserves roads are few and far between and are all of sand or dirt.
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​... with the support team of 3 digging out latrines, erecting showers and cooking our meals. On the first morning we were shown white poo all round the site. Hyena!
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At the village of Kasane we had to agree what drinks to purchase to last us for the whole two weeks of the trip. We would have to pool stocks as there was no way you could keep track on your personal cache.
From this village we took a three hour boat trip during which we saw a pair of Elephants crossing the river. One half submerged and rolled over onto its back, with just its feet sticking out of the water.
The other followed suit. For about 15 minutes they splashed, submerged, reappeared, climbed on each others backs, tussled and acted playfully.
At times just a single trunk was visible and at times not even that. You began to think that they had drowned. They were quite obviously enjoying themselves as much as we were.
Before the day was out we had seen Jackal, Bat Eared Fox, Tssessebe, Lion, Giraffe, dozens of Elephants, Water Monitor, and a host of weirdly shaped and colourful birds.
The roads were a bit like being on a trampoline. You were frequently thrown completely into the air as the truck bumped along at best speed.
A second truck was carrying our water supplies, camping gear, personal gear, cooking and food and drink requirements.
It appeared that we were not due to stop at any area of habitation for the next 10 days.
Elephants Bathing in Botswana
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On this trip, we were camping wild, erecting and dismantling our own tents...
Back to Basics
We trucked onwards through Savute and Moremi Game Parks, crossing the River Kwai in the process. We went over The bridge over the River Kwai but not the infamous Japanese one of course.
Campsites where not used, as we camped wild. No fence of any sort was erected and you were advised not to wander about during the night, As if you needed reminding!
You really did feel close to nature when some reasonably sized animal tripped over your guy ropes.
Toilet visits were kept to a minimum. A one person upright tent with a toilet seat resting on a bottomless bucket was strategically placed, about 20 yards away, over a freshly dug hole.
Usually two fires were lit. One was for the cook and for hot water, whilst the other was for the passengers who would sit round and chat whilst dinner was made. Chairs and trestle tables were conjured up from the depths of the truck.
In the morning all was filled in, and all evidence of our overnight stay and of our cooking/camp fire, was carefully concealed.
Our next port of call was to be the Okovango Delta. Here we went on a canoe ride through this famous swamp.
Good Game
I recorded one mornings game drive: We saw over 700 game from about 15 species, and that this had been one of our quietest drives.
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It would take too long to describe the daily journeys and sightings. As I mentioned earlier I have previously written a 60 page brochure of the overall trip.
Our final Reserves were the Nxai Pan and Nata Pan, areas that flooded each year and dried back to Dessert in the dry season.
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The Town of Maun was our first big settlement since setting off.
A long 250 mile drive took us back to our start point. After another visit to Victoria Falls and problems with local bus transport we eventually ended back in Lusaka for our flight home.
Our ultimate destination was of course Lytham Rd., Blackpool which was our home for over 50 years.