Cycling Scotland with Dougie and Eileen Tait
Biking with Friends- Routes & Incidents
Extracts from Chapter 26 of 'Our Lives' Book
Here we followed the Islands main road north to Bowmore, famous for its whisky, where we stayed the night. Next day we rode to Portnahaven where seals were popping there heads out of the bay and scanning the view.
The locals believe that seals are past relatives returning to keep an eye on things, and when you see one with its bald head and pale face scanning the view, you can see why.
Returning to Bridgend we next headed to Port Askaig and took the short Fiolin ferry to Jura, returning after a short cycle ride on that Island. In the evening we were sampling the local whisky, and there were plenty of Distillers on the Island. Bowmore, Bruachladdich, Ardbeg, Lagavulin, Laphroig, Bunnahabain.
​
We now had a day off road, for a change. Starting at Kiells about 4 miles west of Port Askaig, we followed a track northwards to Loch nam Ban and Ardnahoe Loch before turning back via Loch Staoisha and Mulreesh. It was hard going.
​
Retracing our steps to Port Ellen (for our final night), we took the road past Ardbeg for a few miles as far as Kildalton Castle. At one point we divided forces and Marjorie and I left the bikes to walk across to the seashore and watch the seals.
​
Marjorie was concerned that we were being surrounded by them, there were so many!!
Our return to Ardrossan followed the same route as we had used going, except that I believe that we detoured to visit the Crinan Canal.
We had enjoyed no less than eight ferry rides and some wonderful scenic riding. Apart from the North end of Arran the route had been fairly flat.
Although Marjorie and I both rode a bike, neither of us had done much cycling. In view of this it is interesting that we decided, with Doug and Eileen Tait, to embark on any cycling holidays. We had many!
We were all fans of Scotland, and my recent Munro activities had brought to my notice how quiet the Scottish roads could be, and how some quite long routes could be strung together that did not involve too much height gain for the ladies.
​
I am not sure on the order in which these holidays arose, but I am sure that all the trips took us to new places, stunning scenery, lovely accommodation and numerous Ferry crossings.
Arran. Kintyre. Jura. Islay. July 1986- Where We Get Sealed In, By Ancient Relatives...
​
Following the long drive to Dumfries and Ardrossan we ditched the car on the mainland, and took the Ferry across to the small township of Brodick, on the Isle of Arran.
From here we hugged Arran's Eastern shoreline northwards to Corrie and Sannox with the spectacular Goat Fell Mountains on our left. We had then to push our bikes up a high steep pass before enjoying a fast decent to Lochranza where we spent our second night.​
Another Ferry ride took us the short crossing from Lochranza to Claonaig at the northern end of Kintyre.
“Mull of Kintyre” is one of my favourite songs! It was top of the pops when Terry Wogan's “Floral Dance”, another favourite, was No two.
Then it was a short six miles or so to Kennacraig from where the Ferry to Islay departed, landing us at Port Ellen.
Mull- With Not the Best Start! And A Collision To Follow...
​
We started our trip by cycling from home to Blackpool North Station. Then by train to Preston and Glasgow. At Glasgow we had to change stations to catch the Oban train.
​
From Oban we headed to Mull. I had reserved accommodation at Tobermory as the timetable seemed to indicate that the Oban Ferry went there.
It was a surprise when we arrived at Craignure, about 20 miles short of Tobermory, to find that this was as far as the boat went. The timetable had included the Bus connection from Craignure to Tobermory. So there was a bus connection. So that was alright then!!
​
Except it wasn't!!
​
The Bus Driver did not have baggage space for bikes. Sorry! Bye Bye!!
​
This left us with a somewhat unexpected 20 mile cycle ride to our digs, and this was roughly equivalent to our planned longest days ride. Not off to a good start.
Anyway, it was a lovely evening, a lovely easily graded ride, and we arrived in time for supper. Tobermory is of course famous for its rows of painted houses, each a different vibrant colour, as featured in the Children's TV Series, Ballamory.
​
Next day saw us cycling round the north end of the island to the beautiful Calgary Bay.
From here we followed the coastline south eastwards to Oskamull where we left our bikes and took a Boat Trip round the south side of Ulva to Staffa and Fingals Caves before moving on to the island of Lunga where we landed for one and a half hours, walking to the cliff tops to see hundreds of Puffins nesting.
We returned to Mull along the North side of Ulva.
I think we may have made a short diversion to Salen to find a B+B for the night. Dougie was delighted to find a “Taste of Scotland” restaurant. Next day it was S.W. to Balnahard before making for an isolated hotel near the Aird of Kinloch.
We returned to Craignure on the main road along Glen More, making a small detour at Loch Don where we spotted Otter!
​
Whilst descending into Craignure, with the ladies somewhere ahead of us, we turned heads to see if they had stopped at the Pub. Doug stopped but I carried on, hitting his bike hard in the rear causing both of us to fall in a pile in the road.
Fortunately, persons were only grazed, but Doug's wheels were a write off and we had to walk the last mile. Also fortunately, we were within a mile of the Ferry. The ferry took us to Oban, and then the train took us home, with a wobbly waggle through Glasgow!
I think that from here we took a bus to Fionnphort, and than made the short ferry ride to Iona, where we visited the Monastery.
...having booked into the rather plush Glenfinnan House Hotel.
With roaring fires, large rooms and a real Scottish atmosphere we were led into Dinner by the resident Piper. Next day we caught the train southwards from Glenfinnan Station, breaking our journey at Bridge of Orchy Hotel for the night.
Doug and I had a short cycle (and a puncture) to Victoria Bridge and then we were on board the train again to Glasgow and home.
We were just in time for Haweside Parents Evening!
Moidart, Sunart and Ardgour. July 1988. Following In Famous Footsteps, With A Touch of Luxury
​
This trip started at Cnoc na Faire Hotel, near Keppoch, Arisaig, near the end of the Fort William to Mallaig “Road to the Isles”.
​
On the first two days we sailed to Eigg and Rhum respectively, spotting a Minky Whale on each occasion.
​
We then set of cycling South, following the railway line back towards Fort William as far as Lochailort.
From here it was South along the loch to Glenuig where we picked up Loch Moidart to continued along the A861 until just after Captain Robertsons Cairn when we took a left along a minor road to accommodation at Dalelia near the Western end of the very long Loch Sheil.
It is believed that Bonnie Prince Charlie may have stayed hereabouts on his way to the raising of the Standard at the North end of the Loch.
​
Back on the A861, with hardly any vehicles at all, we cycled on to Salen and Loch Sunart, with Doug experiencing two punctures which required some time and much cursing to repair.
Our next night, Saturday, was to be at Strontian, at the Loch Sunart hotel. Moving ever eastwards we now had a long slow climb up Glen Tarbert before dropping down to the Corran Ferry for refreshment. We still had a long way to go as we wished to be in Glenfinnan tonight...
Outer Hebrides. July 1989. Including a diversion for a little rescue
At the start of this trip we motored to the village of Uig in the North of the Isle of Skye. Here we abandoned the car and boarded the Calmac Ferry to Castlebay at the southern tip of the Isle of Barra.
Then we cycled up the Island passing the Airfield on the Beach to reach the Eoligarry Ferry to carry us to South Uist.
Staying a night at the Orasay Inn, at the North end of S Uist, near Lochcarnan, we then took the causeway to Benbecula, where we stayed at Liniclate.
Next it was on to Grimsay and North Uist. The going was nice and flat, with a few big hills keeping us company on our right to break the monotony of the continuous peat beds.
On one diversion onto a minor road we rescued a sheep that had got bogged down in a ditch. Another minor road towards Loch Eport led to bar food (Taste of Scotland!), at Langlass Lodge at Locheport.
Further up the Island we hit upon a local Highland Games which all the Island seemed to attend. I think we had a walk by the Machair Leathann before sailing back to Skye from Lochmaddy.
Map of some of the routes cycled in Scotland
Other Trips With Doug & Eileen
Jersey. June 1990
On this holiday we circled the Isle of Jersey. I think that we must have hired bikes, as we flew there from Blackpool Airport.
​
The Island was fairly flat, and we visited Gerald Durrell's Zoo and a number of coastal air raid shelters.
Skye- With Some Window Cleaning and Varied Views...
​
Recollections of this trip are a bit hazy.
​
Neither ourselves nor Doug can recall exactly what the itinerary was.
Doug recalls cycling over the new road bridge, but I am unsure about that and think we used the Kyleakin Ferry. The road bridge was not opened until 1995.
​
It is possible that we crossed from Mallaig to Armadale where we possibly visited the McDonald Castle and Museum. From about a mile North of the village we then headed west along the minor road to Tarskavaig and Tokavaig before turning East to regain the east coast road about three miles short of Isleornsay.
​
Here we stayed at the Old Post Office House B+B. There was a Gaelic Ceilidh being performed that night, in the village hall, on the sea front. A very large lady on the very front row of the stage was holding a very large Double Bass which was bigger than she was. And SHE was big.
She had her knees wide apart revealing underwear that resembled a Bell Tent!
It was a good night.
At some point, a ferry had operated from here, but we saw no signs of one nowadays.
Next we cycled to Kyleakin to cross, by ferry, to Kyle of Lochalsh. We probably stayed here the night before catching a train to Inverness.
We bagged front seats in the Diesel Type Railcar, but the windows were filthy. I procured a bucket of water and a cloth from somewhere and proceeded to wash the windows. It would be a pity to travel along this magnificent route with dirty windows.
At least one night was spent on Inverness, and we visited a Folk Club. It was awful. Participants had made up their own songs and some had really rude lyrics.
After half an hour or so we walked out. We were accompanied by shouts of “What's the matter. Can't you stomach it!!”
We replied that “we had wasted half an hour of our lives and we were not to prepared to listen to rubbish any longer!” We beat the retreat and found a nice quiet pub by the side of the River Ness.