Chapter 5. 1982 Adventures
Ben Oss, Ben More, Ben Avon, Blaven, Am Basteir and Other Skye Hills, Tarmachan
In which we do not enjoy a 'lock-in' but do meet the Queen's hairdresser.
We smash a takings record, Ian speaks too loudly, I wrestle a wardrobe and we encounter a kamikaze sheep.
I vow to learn to swim, Malcolm watches Ian eat seaweed, a porkpie saves Dave from a thrashing and a Wallace Arnold coachload take a close interest in a ladybird.
In which I also advocate bringing back steam trains and old money.
February 4th- 7th, 1982
Mal, Ian, Dave Hill
​A Thursday night start...
February 5th, 1982
Mal, Ian, Dave Hill
2 Munros
Ben Oss, Beinn Dubhchraig
(Tyndrum)
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Setting out from Tyndrum we followed the River Cononish to its source then swung left to the summit of Ben Oss, then down and round onto Beinn Dubhchraig before following its north ridge down again.
We had no views.
13 miles. 3350ft. 6 hours 45 mins.
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February 6th, 1982
Mal, Ian, Dave Hill
2 Munros
Beinn Narnain, Beinn Ime (Rest & Be Thankful)
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From half way up the Rest and Be Thankful, we followed the stream to the Col between Beinn Narnain and Beinn Ime and proceeded to do these two Munroes in that order.
From Narnain there were no views and we had hail and sleet on top, Whilst on Ime, although windy, we did get some views as we left the top.
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6 miles. 3750ft. 4 hours 45 mins.
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February 7th 1982
Mal, Ian, Dave Hill
2 Munros
Ben More, Stob Binnein
(Crianlarich)
From Crianlarich we parked up at the foot of Ben More. Although a grey day we did have views on the way up and on the way down.
Above 3000ft there was a thin covering of ice, and nearer the top one or two snow cornices looked dangerously tempting.
Some care was required to proceed to Stob Binnein and by now the view had gone. We awaited a break but were not in luck. Snow and sleet did not make a good recipe for a long stop.
From the Col back to Ben More we enjoyed some good snow sliding down to the Benmore Burn.
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Some of us had axes and this was one of the first days we had used them. We agreed that Crampons were something we all should have.
5½ miles. 4300ft.
May 20th- 23rd, 1982
Mal, Dave Hill
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A Thursday night start from Blackpool. Stayed at the Bridge of Cally.
May 21st, 1982
Mal, Dave Hill
4 Munros & 3 Tops
Carn Aosda, Cairnwell, Carn a'Gheoidh, An Socach
(Cairnwell)​
From the Café Car Park at the top of the Cairnwell road we made the short ascent of Carn Aosda, then quickly round to Cairnwell.
A pleasant stroll took in Carn a Gheoidh, then we had to drop down northwards and rise again to An Socach.
From here we followed the Baddoch Burn back to the road. It had remained fine, with views, for most of the day.
17 miles. 3350ft. 8 hours 20 mins.
Dave Hill & Nev debate which way.
May 22nd, 1982
Mal, Dave Hill
2 Munros & 5 Tops
Beinn a'Bhuird, Ben Avon​
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We had stayed the night at The Inn at Inver and had stated our intentions of being away very early the next morning . Despite our requests for a cold breakfast to be left out... our hosts insisted they would be up and cook for us. Needless to say -They Were Not and they did not.
​Not only was there no breakfast but the doors leading from the bedroom to the hotel were locked. We couldn’t get out of the Hotel.
Eventually we used a fire escape exit and set off, driving through Braemar, then past the Lynn of Dee, to park at Allanaquoich.
A good Landrover track took us up Glen Quoich and then up onto the shoulder of Beinn a Bhuird. We were in thick cloud and visibility was poor.
We tracked around for a while before becoming satisfied that we were in fact at the North Top, the actual Munro. This was particularly important from my point of view as it was my 100th !!
Ton Up!! 100th Munro for me, Nev!!
A number of smaller tops were strung in a semi circle, and most sported a small outcrop of stones or sandstone boulders. For some reason we decided we would try to make this our longest day, and we did this by means of adding on a number of these outlying tops.
On regaining the main summit we headed off SSW to hit Quoich Water and then regain Glen Quoich. The last hour down Glen Quoich was one of the longest of my life, and I made the car with under 6ft of walking left in me.
We had gained only 4200ft but our mileage was around 28. Back at the Inver we received apologies for the lockout, and a free steak supper to compensate.
This hotel is the nearest to the Balmoral Estate and a number of locals worked for the Queen. The landlady herself said she did the royal hair. One or two against the bar looked the SAS bodyguard types. No anti-Royalist jokes tonight boys!!
28 miles. 4200ft. 12 hours.
Mal & Dave on Ben Avon
Our next main target was Ben Avon, and by the time we reached it the clouds were higher and we enjoyed good views.
Dave Hill enroute to Avon
Dave Hill practicing a 'gotcha' on Mal
May 23rd 1982
Malcom, Dave Hill
1 Munro
Glas Tulaichean
(Dalmulzie)​​
Crossing over the Cairnwell Pass again, we turned west at the Spittal of Glenshee and parked by the Dalmunzie Hotel.
Here we followed the remnants of an old narrow gauge track up Gleann Taitneach, continuing on to Loch nan Eun...
Nev. Loch nan Eun
... before turning Southwest for Glas Tulaichean. Its SE ridge led us gently back to the Dalmulzie.
The day had been mixed but great views from the top.
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11 miles. 2500ft.
One of the three reasons that Ian missed some of the early trips!
July 3rd 1982
Malcom, Dave Hill
2 Munros + 2 Tops
Aonach Beag, Aonach Mor
(Nevis)
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We stayed the first night at Nevis YHA.
The next day we parked up in Glen Nevis at the road end. The river was followed as far as Steall when we chose the flank of Sgurr a Bhuic to take us well on the way to the summit of Aonach Beag 4060ft.
Aonach Beag
Aonach Mor 3999ft followed next, then a steep descent and a contour round returned us to the car.
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8½ miles. 4250ft. 6 hours 45 mins.​
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That night we stayed at the Monadh Liath Hotel, run by someone from Lancashire (Bolton or Chorley). It had a small ruin in its grounds.
​All the locals were away at a wedding. Despite this the landlord was impressed when at around midnight he realised that his cash register had recorded a new record evening's takings, and this with only 5 or 6 in the bar!
We passed the Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge on the way to Monadh Liath
July 4th 1982
Malcolm, Dave Hill
5 Munros + 1 Top
Carn Dearg, Carn Ban,
Carn Ballach, Carn Sgulain,
A'Chailleach
(Monadh Liath)
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The round of the Monadh Liath started with Carn Dearg and finished with Cairn A'Chailleach, taking in Carn Ban, Carn Ballach and Carn Sgulain.
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We started clear to Carn Dearg but then clouds thickened and we navigated along a disused fence for most of the day with visibility rarely exceeding 100 yards. There was a moorland feel to the fairly rounded, peaty, tops.
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15 miles. 3300ft.
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At this time you scored 5 Munros. This has since been revised to 3.
October 9th- 17th 1982
Mal, Ian, Dave Hill
This trip was partly recorded by myself on tape to the constant moans of my companions. Dave Hill contributed the word 'Rubbish' on 64 occasions, but, sadly, no other words of wisdom.
October 9th 1982
Mal, Ian, Dave Hill
1 Munro
Stob a'Choire Odhair
(Orchy)
We had a Saturday start due to the British Legion Poppy Dance having been last night.
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We set off from Blackpool in the morning and collected Ian at Salwick. He was busy changing a car tyre.
We had to backtrack when he realised his guitar was not packed. It was found hidden in Valerie's Car.
Malcolm had been relying on us being 100 miles further on before Ian realised the omission.
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12.30 midday we were over Beattock, and by 3.30 approaching Crianlarich, with the tops just in cloud. We debated whether to climb today or to go straight for Skye.
Stob a Choire Odhar near Inverarnan at Bridge of Orchy was selected. By 4.15 boots were on and this was our latest start up a Munro.
By 5.20 we had passed Victoria Bridge and the climbing hut and were heading up the Allt Toaig. Despite light rain the tops were now almost clear. It was very still.
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Good time was made on the excellent zigzag path up to a col by Beinn Toaig. A stag roared in the near distance and cloud descended to below 2000ft. Ben Lui was visible.
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At 6.10 we arrived at the summit with no view, a nip in the air, and it was almost dark. By 7.25 we were back at the car and it was definitely dark.
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The chance of alcohol caused us to abandon Skye for the night and stay at the Clachaig, a decision approved of by "Alky Malky". We called in at the Bridge of Orchy for a couple of whistle wetters.
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7¼ miles. 2500ft. 3 hours.
Nev & Ian. Another Munro celebration.
October 10th 1982
Mal, Ian, Dave Hill
2 Munros, 1 Top
Sgorr Dhearg, Sgorr Dhonuill
(Bheinn a Bheither, Ballachulish)
The price of a chalet at the Clachaig had gone up to £15 per night, whereas it was only £8 last time. (Still not bad when divided by 4).
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Loch Leven was perfectly still and Ardgour looked good.
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The last Skye Ferry is 5.15pm, so it would be touch and go whether we reached Skye tonight. (No Skye bridge as yet !).
We started at 10.40am from Ballachulish Village and struck up steeply onto the slopes of Sgorr Dhearg. Several wild flowers gave the excuse for stops.
At a sheep fence a Labrador tried to jump over, and got a leg stuck in the process. Cloud levels were about 3000ft.
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Cagoules came on just after 1pm and the view came and went. By 1.40pm we found our first round trig point and our first Munro.
By 3pm we reached the second peak Sgorr Dhonuill (Donald's Peak), in sunshine, with views in most directions. We sunbathed a short while and the views gradually clouded in.
On the way down two young ladies were spotted, but well ahead. Ian, believing them well out of earshot commented "I'd like to get to know those two".
Shortly afterwards he fell head over heels, not "in love", but over an edge. Fortunately only about 6 ft.
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We were down for 5pm and we had choc ices. Ian and Dave Hill were given a lift by the two young ladies to retrieve our car.
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They had heard Ian's comments and asked "which one of you wants to get to know us?" much to Ian's embarrassment.
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Malcolm and I had coffee in a café.
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We had obviously missed the boat to Skye, so we made the most of it by staying at the Cluanie. The bunk rooms were now £4 with breakfast at £3.50.
I had difficulty finding the door in the night as Ian had piled wardrobes against it.
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6½ miles. 4500 ft. 6 hours 15 mins.
October 11th 1982
Mal, Ian, Dave Hill
1 Munro
Bla Bheinn (Blaven)
(Skye)
We were on Skye (at last) by 10.30am and headed for Blaven, which appeared as a great sheet of rock, with the sun beating down.
Thick cloud was on top however, when we arrived at what we believed to be the summit. We got the flasks out and looked at the map. The top did not sport the trig point it should have done.
However, from closer examination of the map, it transpired that there are two tops close to each other. We were at the wrong one.
After casting about above steep drops we found a descending gully, a stony chute that, with a scramble, dropped us around 100ft before a rise back to the true top.
At 2.50pm we finally summited to the trig point, still in thick cloud. Suddenly the view cleared briefly and the cliffs and naked pinnacles of Clach Glas filled our view and our minds.
It was awe inspiring, causing us to gasp and back away. David ran the other way laughing hysterically.
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On the way down, Rum and Mull appeared clearly in view.
5 miles. 3250ft.
We eventually reached our Holiday Cottage at Carbost. It was the old School House, with School Room attached, and owned by a Mrs. Wakefield, quite a formidable lady.
A coal fire was a bonus and, from outside, the main Cuillin Ridge was partly visible, as we were about 100ft above the village and enjoyed good views over both loch and ridge.
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Later in the week our landlady was clearly unimpressed when we offered a stray walker the use of the spare bedroom. Additional rental was sought.
The schoolroom was rigged up for table tennis.
October 12th 1982
Mal, Ian, Dave Hill
2 Munros
Am Basteir, Bruach Na Frithe
(Cuillin Ridge)
Starting from the Slighachan Hotel we headed up Coire Riabhach for Am Bastair.
The upper reaches of Coire Bastair were impressive with a deep gorge and the Pinnacle Ridge of Gillean looking fearsome.
The summit of Am Basteir itself took some care with sloping rock luring you down into Lota Coire, and a small bad step.
We were a little surprised to find a sheep on the highest point. It just looked at us and jumped over the edge, obviously perfectly at home.
The ridge round to Bruach na Frithe presented no difficulty once we had backtracked off Am Basteir, and the descent to Slighachan was also ok.
8 miles. 3500ft.
October 13th 1982
Mal, Ian, Dave Hill
Day to Explore
We had a day off and explored sea cliffs and one particularly large sea cave.
Ian and I were in here some time and when we came out the tide had risen and we were nearly cut off.
The tide rushed in and out carrying quantities of shingle as it did so. By timing your run you could just make it. My own timing was poor and I was nearly sucked out.
Returning to the cliff top Malcolm decided that Ian should eat seaweed for some rash remark and a general wrestle ensued, with Ian failing to elude the famous 'underarm headlock'.
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We sought out a Ceilidh at Edinbane but it turned out to be a bit highbrow. However Willy Shankleys Pub, just across the road was a much more lively affair, and we sat here something over 8 hours.
By this time we knew all the words to Sand and Tones 'Crystal Chandelier' and the words to a few comic poems. Some of the Gaelic singing was spellbinding.
October 14th 1982
Mal, Ian, Dave Hill
1 Munro
Sgurr Nan Gillean
(Cuillin Ridge)
We again started at the Slighachan and followed the Tourist Route to Sgurr Nan Gillian. Only the summit ridge supplied any difficulty and here we scrambled up using all anatomical parts to assist.
The actual summit has a narrow approach and is definitely memorable. It was my 100th with Malcolm.
The evening was spent with a girls school and staff at Portnalong. They had just won a prestigious trophy at the Mod and gave us a splendid rendition of a Gaelic song.
Here again I somehow lost my car keys, and, as by tradition, walked back the three miles to Carbost, falling foul of a cattle grid in the pitch dark.
October 15th 1982
Mal, Ian, Dave Hill
2 Munros
Sgurr a'Mhadaidh
Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh
(Cuillin Ridge)
This was a good day, with plenty of real rock scenery and plenty of "Hands On" opportunity.
We climbed from the valley steeply to Sgurr Thuilm and followed its crest before aiming for An Dorus, the gap between Sgurr a Mhadaidh and Sgurr a Ghreadaidh.
The rock scenery here is impressive and you began to wonder how you were to progress either left or right. The immediate rock prospect drew the comment from Ian "I want to go home".
We held his hand, and he was O.K.
It was absolutely clear, with great views all round including Rum, Portree, Old Man of Storr, Dunvegan Cliffs etc.
By An Dorus we had been going 3 hours. We went left first, to Mhadaidh, and after a rock step it was a good scramble to the summit cairn.
A second top was 20ft away and by sitting astride the ridge you could shuffle along to it. By now it was a flat calm with lazy cloud and little view.
Returning to An Dorus we again had a tricky section before attaining Ghreadaidh. We considered its outlying south top, but gave this up as too hairy.
Banachdich and Thormaid looked impressive ahead, as did Alasdair. Ian explored down and on towards Thormaid but, despite his enthusiastic waving, we called him back and beat the retreat, using Ian's rope as a precaution on one 8ft section.
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By 6.55pm we were back at the car and ready for refreshment.
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7 miles. 3700ft. 7 hours 45 mins.
What a Night!
It would be 4.30am before the first of us hit bed, with two returning even later.
We called in the pub at Carbost for a pint (or two), and watched two charter buses pull away for Portree. It was Friday night and nearly the end of the Gaelic mod that had seized the island all week. Not to be left behind we headed for Portree.
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On arrival at the big city, our first call was in The Portree Hotel. Here the bar was crammed and the foyer overflowing as an impromptu ceilidh was in action.
People fought 5 deep at the bar and a Piper was the only person given elbow room.
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Then across the road to an upstairs bar. Again a crush and again a piper in one room and piper and drummer in full flow in the next.
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Next stop was The Royal which has a large public bar. Just over full, with a Fiddle and Accordion alternatively playing together and against each other.
People were now beginning to slump and slide. In one corner bodies were piled three deep to make way for the survivors.
Occasionally an imploring hand came out of the pile and a friendly arm bent down and placed a wee dram in it. The arm withdrew into the pile, with glass, and peace rained again.
Another port of call was The Royal Hotel Reception Bar/Dance Hall. Here a singsong was in progress and one of the Accordionists was Yvonne who Ian knew from playing elsewhere.
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At around 3.30am Malcolm and I arrived back at our car in the square, but no Ian or David. Malcolm eventually traced them down to a bar and reported that they didn’t seem ready just yet.
A three minute warning was given to no avail, so we did the sensible thing and went home to bed, arriving in at around 4.30am.
It later transpired that Ian and Dave had finished their drink but had decided to wait whilst pies were heated for all our suppers.
When they arrived at the square we had already gone. Fortunately there were the two chartered coaches from Carbost.
They boarded, even though without tickets, and tried to look nonchalant, but when a "heavy" came down the coach, demanding tickets and getting abusive with those who didn’t have, they offered him Malcolm's and my supper and slid quietly off.
As luck would have it the driver refused to drive, saying that the night was young, and he hadn't had enough to drink yet. In due course even the driver had had enough and the coach was now less full, so Ian and Dave were able to get a lift after all.
The journey was fast and hair raising. We had thoughtfully left a window open for then, and as they climbed in we told them to put the kettle on and start breakfast.
I would emphasise that we did not leave them behind... They just refused to come with us.
16th October 1982
Mal, Ian, Dave Hill
Rest Day - Galeforce Winds
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By 10am we had eaten, packed, and set off for Neist Point. The wind was gale force and welcome. There would be no climbing today.
After watching terns diving, waves smashing and a trawler thrashing, we made for Dunvegan where we had found a good little café.
Egg and Chips was off the menu today so we settled for a cheese toastie.
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By tea time we had passed Edinbane (shame) and were again in Portree for the second time in 12 hours (almost).
We settled for chips and took the ferry to the mainland. Our last night was once again spent at the Clachaig Chalet.
17th October 1982
Mal, Ian, Dave Hill
1 Munro
Meall nan Tarmachan
(Loch Tay)
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We headed through Killin for the Ben Lawers Visitor Centre.
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Today's Munroe was Meall na Tarmachan. We followed a track due West then turned North up a long nose (Malcolm likes noses).
The strong wind increased to a full gale as we ascended. Visibility was virtually nil on the top, and we ended up crawling on all fours until the cairn was under our knees.
A small wall of cliff hindered descent and the small lochan on the col, in the hurling mist and buffeting maelstrom, took on the magnitude of a lake when we arrived at it.
From this lochan the wind appeared to pick up hundreds of gallons of water and fling it northwards, towards us, for it to drain back, and to be repeated time after time.
We tried due East for shelter but still could not stand. Eventually we edged down and things eased in the lower heights.
It was raining hard as we gained the Visitor Centre Car Park which was empty except for ourselves, but then who would go out on a day like this.
We changed under a canopy, and, as we were stripping, a Wallace Arnold Coach drew into the large Car Park, saw us changing and drove his coachload of elderly ladies right up to us.
Probably the most exiting part of their very wet day out. As luck would have it I had just removed wet underpants and so I rapidly selected a dry pair and pulled them on.
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One leg went part way in but they seemed to have shrunk and wouldn’t pull past my knees.
It was then that I saw the little Ladybird emblem on the back. They were my son, Andrews, and he was only 14 (see A Brief Encounter with a Ladybird blog for extended version of the story!)
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7 miles. 2100ft.
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At Tebay we called into the Cross Keys for what was for a time becoming a traditional last pint stop.
During the week we had bagged 10 Munroes and 1 top, walked around 48 miles and climbed 22,750ft.
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I had now been up 103 Munros with Malcolm, 48 with Ian, and 42 with Dave Hill.
We had survived the week. Somehow we each had around £60 we could not account for, and which we deduced had been spent on drinks. With drinks at around 3 to a £ that was a lot of drinks.
It was around now that we incorporated the newest changes in Munro's Tables into our own records. For myself my total haul was reduced from 119 to 117, with five losses and three gains.
As it happened my revised total with Ian was now exactly 50, and I was back at 99 with Malcolm, and 39 with Dave Hill.
Why must things constantly change!!
Please bring back:-
Steam Trains.
Old Money.
Munros as per "Munro" himself.
Sir Hugh Munro who first catalogued Scottish Mountains over 3,000ft
