Chapter 4. 1981 Adventures
Ben Lawers, Ben Vorlich, Orchy Hills, Cairnwell and Cairngorm Rounds. Conival, Fannaichs, Affric.
In which we manage to discover how a posh piano ended up in a highland bar, how to upset a receptionist and how to asphyxiate an over curious deer.
Additionally, how I was thwarted by "Albert and the Lion", upset the McDonald's of Glencoe, slept in a chicken coup and received the attention of a bouncer for doing my good deed of the day.
February 6th to 8th, 1981
Lawers & Loch Tay
Malcolm
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We travelled up on a Friday night and discovered the route up Strathyre was a good way North.
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Staying the night at the appropriately named 'Munroe Hotel' in Strathyre, we soon found that the atmosphere at “The Inn” a few doors down was more lively.
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The place was full of red and white scarves and we wondered if Man Utd perhaps had a game in Scotland. We should have known better.
It was the Welsh contingent in support of their teams' attendance at Murrayfield to play Scotland. They had no tickets for the match and intended to watch it on TV.
They had saved up all year for the trip, and it was a common feature, to just be in Scotland at the time of the game was enough.
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A posh piano had been 'borrowed on trial' for the weekend and shipped up on the coach from Wales.
February 7th 1981
Malcolm
3 Munros
Meall Corranaich. Beinn Ghlas
Ben Lawers
(Loch Tay)
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We parked at the visitor centre and took in Meall Corranaich and Beinn Ghlas en route for Ben Lawers, making it three for the day.
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It was wet and windy but these were three fast Munroes. We started at 11am and were finished by 3pm.
There was some difficulty in the retreat from Ben Lawers due to high wind from the S.W. and driving hail and sleet. For once we actually beat Naismith !!
7 miles. 3800ft. 4 hours.​
We spent the evening and night at the Kingshouse Hotel near Balquidder, which at this time had the main road passing its door.​
The place was full and included many locals who had been to the Scottish match (which I think Scotland won).
There was a fairly refined hill shepherd from the Etive area who was a fanatical Rabbie Burns fan. Apart from entertaining us with recitals (including 'timorous beasties'), he also enlightened us that the poet had in fact a large following in Russia of all places.
It was a lively night.
February 8th 1981
Malcolm
2 Munros
Ben Vorlich, Stuc a'Chroin
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Parking at Edinample at the west end of Loch Tay we followed Glen Ample for a mile or so then headed up into Corrie Fhuadaraich and then made a beeline for Ben Vorlich.
It was cloudy, breezy, and with light flurries of snow. We were fortunate to obtain some views, but not from the summits.
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From Vorlich we headed for Stuc a'Chroin fairly directly. It presented a considerable buttress and this gave a steep icy scramble up a gash that received no sunlight.
At this point we did not possess ice axes and crampons and we began to wish that we did.
There was little by way of views as a reward, but by way of contrast, once we started the descent, it became hot and sunny.
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I reached my 50th Munro on today's second peak.
10 miles. 3600ft.
Out of context to the excursion under review, but I must get a picture of Ben Dorain in somewhere. So here it is.
May 9th- 11th 1981
Malcolm
Kintail & Orchy
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Within a year of our first sortie to the Cluanie we were back again, pleased to be able to book the bunkrooms.
The road north was not as easy in 1980's as it is 20 years on. We were glad that the Cluanie did not close promptly at 11pm (more likely 1am), and that a tasty selection of sandwiches usually stood under a glass dome at the end of the bar.
Morag, a friendly heavily built girl, was still working here, and Danny and wife were of course ruling the roost.
Curiously they often had to consider whether accommodation was available, or not, even though they were blatantly empty.
Danny frequently disappeared to consult his wife. On one occasion we had to move rooms on consecutive nights as they were “very busy”, but next morning only ourselves appeared for breakfast.
May 9th 1981
Malcolm
4 Munros + 1 Top
Saileag
Sgurr a'Bhealaich Dheirg
Aonach Meadhoin
Ciste Dhubh
(The North Shiel Ridge- East End)
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On a perfect day that was to remain sunny and calm throughout we started off at the same place as last year when we took the gap in the trees to the ridge but this time we then turned east instead of west.
Saileag was the first Munro and then we took in the whole ridge swinging away to collect Ciste Dubh before down to the Inn for a bar snack and then walking back down the pass to collect the car.
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12 miles. 5000ft
Ciste Dhubh
May 10th 1981
Malcolm
4 Munros + 3 Tops
Carn Ghluasaid (Repeat)
Sgurr nan Conbhairean
A'Chralaig
Mullach Fraoch-choire
(North of Loch Cluanie)
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Today the wind was from the East, there was thick cloud, and there would be no views.
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We started by doing our first repeat Munroe. This was Carn Ghlusaid with its fast ascent track.
From here we moved Northwest to Sgurr nan Conbhainean then west to take in A Chralaig before heading along the long ridge north to Mullach Fraoch-choire.
There was snow forming a cornice on much of the route. From Top 1008 metres we then dropped to the valley.
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We had covered 12 miles and 5400ft. and afterwards we motored to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel for our first overnight stay here.
May 11th 1981
Malcolm
3 Munros + 2 Tops
Beinn a'Chreachain
Beinn Achaladair
Beinn an Dothaidh
(Orchy)
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As we set off from Bridge of Orchy Hotel a rather corpulent, rather elderly gentleman appeared from the small room adjoining reception and imparted information to all and sundry on the weather forecast.
This was obviously his pet hobby, and we were to benefit from, or at least listen with interest to, his advice on a number of occasions.
Some years later when I booked in here by telephone I had difficulties with the receptionist who didn’t seem to know if rooms were available, what the tariff was, what time the trains went etc.
I became a little cross on the phone, but felt some guilt on arrival to find that the poor girl had left in tears due to hassle from customers on what was apparently her first days' employment at Orchy.
Parking at Achallader we followed the railway (spotting deer) alongside the Water of Tulla for about 2 miles then headed uphill to join the ridge to Beinn a'Chreachain above Coire an Lochain.
It was a perfect day. Hot and clear with a breeze on the tops. We now followed the long easy ridge back, westwards, over Beinn Achaladair until we reached Beinn an Dothaidh.
Here we divided forces and I dropped down the delightful Allt Coire Achaladair, at a saunter, to collect the car, whilst Malcolm continued along to collect Beinn Dorain before descending steeply to our rendezvous at the Orchy Hotel.
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12 miles. 5400ft. 7 hours.
June 26th- 29th 1981
Malcolm
Braemar & Cairngorms
June 26th 1981
Malcolm
6 Munros + 1 Top
Creag Leacach, Glas Maol
Cairn of Claise, Tom Buidhe
Tolmount, Carn an Tuirc
(Glenshee)
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Parking at the Cairnwell Car Park at over 2000ft must be a good start to any day.(Except for the squalor of the ski tows etc).
​We headed from Meall Odhar to Creag Leacach with a cold north wind, cloud, hail and sleet.
From here it was back to Glas Maol, out to Cairn of Claise, then further out to Tom Buidhe requiring some careful navigation.
Driving hail greeted us here. Tolmount and Carn an Tuirc completed the round.
The café at the car park was welcome. I think that we stayed at “The Inn” at Inver.
16 miles and 3350ft.
“The Inn” at Inver
​Then followed the White Mounth, Carn an t'Sagairt Mor, Cairn Bannoch and Broad Cairn, with an impressive number of tops thrown in. As the day progressed so the weather improved and we ended up with excellent views of the Cairngorms with a good covering of snow on the high summits.
18½ miles. 4100ft.
June 27th 1981
Malcolm
5 Munros + 5 Tops
Lochnagar, White Mounth
Carn an t-Sagairt Mor
Cairn Bannoch, Broad Cairn
(Glen Muick)​​
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Our start point was the visitor centre in Glen Muick, crossing the Spittal and following the good track uphill.
There were few views and it was cold on the ascent of Lochnagar. There was plastered snow on the summits.
Lochnagar
June 28th 1981
Malcolm
5 Munros + 10 Tops
Cairngorm (Repeat), Ben Macdui (Repeat)
The Devils Point, Cairn Toul
Braeriach
(Cairngorm 4000's)
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For this big day we were blessed with clear sunny weather throughout.
We took the Cairngorm chairlift at 9.15am. From the summit of Cairngorm we then absorbed a number of tops en route for Macdui. From Corrour Bothy we climbed again to reach Devils Point followed by Cairn Toul and Braeriach.
Devil's Point
Cairntoul
Along this stretch Malcolm met someone he knew. We visited the Sinclair hut (since demolished) and found it in a poor way and being used as a doss house by down and outs.
The cross-country route back to the car seemed to take an age.
We finished at 9.45pm and were glad of the late opening of a restaurant in Aviemore for replenishment.
A great day. 22 miles and 6350ft. 12.5 hours.
Cairngorms
Cairngorms
June 29th 1981
Malcolm
4 Munros
Mullach Clach a'Bhlair
Meall Dubhag, Carn Ban Mor
Sgor Gaoith
(Feshie)
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Again we were lucky to have a clear day with good views at all times. Today's walk would have been a navigational exercise without doubt, given poor visibility.
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We parked at Achlean in Glen Feshie, followed the river upstream on its west bank for a couple of miles, then took the vehicle access road eastwards ascending Mullach Clach a Bhlair.
We then kept to the high ground for a fairly easy stroll back to Meall Dubhag, Carn Ban Mor and delightful perch of Sgorr Gaoith.
This gave a good tea stop, resting in a heathery hollow with views down to Loch Einich and across to the broad shoulder of Braeriach.
There was a simple descent to Achlean.
15 miles. 3300ft.
An unwitting deer risks a sniff at Malcolm's socks at the end of a long day.
Note: Some years later we battled for, and achieved, the remote Top, Tom Dubh, in a blizzard.
I had a cornice incident at a small burn where you would not envisage such a happening and, as time and weather conspired against us, we had to abandon plans to repeat Sgorr Gaoith and other tops, after very poor conditions on Carn Ban More, (now demoted).
September 25th- 3rd October 1981
Malcolm, Ian, Dave Hill
This was Dave Hill's first foray with us
But I forgot the connection between the song and Glencoe, when the McDonalds were slain in their beds.
The song made light of the event which the Macdonalds in Glencoe still vividly recall.
Just in time, my friends restrained me, and suggested that I could try :-
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'Oh the Campbells are coming. Hurrah Hurrah '
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But this would, of course, be just as bad as it was the Campbells who killed the Macdonald's, and there was a sign in the Hotel foyer clearly saying "No Campbells ! "No Hawkers !'
As my great grandmother was a McDonald, I should have known better.
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I seem to recollect sleeping part of the night behind the car steering wheel after being locked out of the chalet. I will get my own back.
BEWARE.
Sept 25th 1981
We left Blackpool at 6pm and took the Strathyre route to Glencoe. We were booked into the Clachaig Hotel Chalets for the night at a cost of £2 per head.
At normal closing time the back room door opened, and as we were resident we were included. This was the night that stories were told in turn.
I intended doing 'Our Albert' but was pre empted by a big bearded, kilted, Scotsman with a dirc down his stocking top, who proceeded to tell ' A famous seaside place called Blackpool'.
I quickly decided, instead, to teach a scout round which goes :-
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'Macdonald is dead and his brother don’t know it,
His brother is dead and Macdonald don’t know it
They are both of them dead
And in the same bed
And not one of them knows that the other is dead.'
This can be quite a jolly round if sung with gusto.
September 26th 1981
Malcolm, Ian, Dave Hill
2 Munros + 3 Tops
Carn Mor Dearg, Ben Nevis (Repeat)
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We parked near to the golf course by Inverlochy Castle and started on the good track up the Allt a Mhuilinn before striking up to Carn Beag Dearg and then keeping to the ridge all the way round. Malcolm was struggling with an ankle injury from rugby and he retreated somewhat despondently after Carn Mor Dearg.
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It rained nearly all day and was quite windy on the arrete up onto Ben Nevis and on the summit itself.
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11 miles. 5300ft. 7 hours 50 mins.
After a shower and a meal at Fort William we headed to Garve where Ian had booked us a caravan.
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When we arrived it was to find that the owners were out and the van was a decrepit old thing.
It was partly roofless, chicken infested, dirty, and the electrics seemed archaic. Before dashing out for a pint at the Garve Hotel we did a quick springclean.
Ian (our accommodation manager) vowed to have a serious set-to with the owner next day.
September 27th 1981
Malcolm, Ian, Dave Hill
1 Munro
Fionn Bheinn
(Achnasheen)
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The lady owner of the van came to see us and was close to hysterical, with tears running down her face. Before Ian could complain she said "There's no way that’s your home boys. You are in what we use as a chicken coup. No one has stayed in there for over 20 years. Your van is the big new mobile home round the back."
"Anyway, we have some cottages, and if you like you can have one of these for the same price. They are central heated, with hot water and a fireplace. Just pay the electric at the end of the week". We were well suited.
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As Malcolm was struggling with his rugby injury, and didn't think he could put boots on, we decided on an easy day and chose Fionn Bheinn above Achnasheen village.
It was cloudy all day and the climb was rather dreary. Malcolm managed in plimsolls.
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6 miles. 2700ft. 3 hours 15 mins.
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This was probably the first time we visited Bloody Beryl, the landlady of the Achnasheen Hotel.
We were to have some good nights there over the years before it finally burnt down.
The pool table, the ever present Hector, pictures of steam trains, roaring fire, container of sandwiches, bonfires, Gerry getting irate about the fate of aborigines, will ever remain a backdrop to a number of amusing memories.
Sad that the place no longer exists.
We tried unsuccessfully at Grudie to negotiate a key to the gate to the Fannichs.
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September 28th 1981
Malcolm, Ian, Dave Hill
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We decided to try for Beinn Dearg but we were turned back by the laird after we inadvertently drove up his drive near Inverlael.
They were stalking today and probably all week. Family looked rather posh and we dubbed one 'hurrah henry' type 'Cynthia'.
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As time was going, we opted for a quiet day by the river at Garve. The river was in flood and the falls were looking good. Road improvements were just beginning.
We spent some time aiming stones at cans and small cairns we built, and visited the Garve Hotel. It didn’t have a lot of character and some film or other was usually on the TV.
The little shop in Garve was quite old fashioned, and there was a bridge over the railway, now replaced by a level crossing.
September 29th 1981
Malcolm, Ian, Dave Hill
2 Munros
Conival. Ben More Assynt
(Inchnadamph)
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From Inchnadamph we followed the Gleann Dubh virtually to its source. The river goes underground for a short stretch and there are a number of caves in this valley.
From the source it was an easy ridge to Conival and a good long ridge out to Ben More Assynt.
When we visited here a second time (In 1992) there was a small element of doubt as to whether we did in fact visit the top on this first trip.
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The day was wet all day and we had no views.
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To descend we simply reversed the route, exploring some of the caves as we went.
At one point the river remerges from the gravel. A number of prehistoric finds have been made in this area.
10 miles. 4000ft. 6 hours 45 mins.​
Return visit on Bean's (Geraldine's) Munro completion 15th Nov 92. Mal. Carl (The Article). Dave Southern. Nev. Ian.
15th November 1992. Bean completed her round of the Munros. She immediately set about the Corbetts. Sound familiar?
September 30th 1981
Malcolm, Ian, Dave Hill
4 Munros + 1 Top
Meall a'Chrasgaidh
Sgurr nan Clach Geala
Sgurr Mor
Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich
(Fannichs)
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We parked 2 miles west of Braemore Junction where the Abhainn Cuileig goes under the road, and headed due south following a stream directly to Meall a Chrasgaidh.
At a small Lochan Malcolm was not amused and had a sense of humour failure when we decided on an 'add on', as his foot was still sore, but we still veered right to Sgurr nan Clach Geala, then reversed round the ridge to Sgurr Mor.
It was very windy here and we were to get no views all day.
Taking in the final Munroe, Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich, we dropped northwards.
Dave and Mal then followed the Allt a Mhadaidh eastwards to the nearby A835. From here they hitched back to the car.
Ian and myself took the longer but direct route, north along the east flank of Meall a Bhainne, to hit the car spot on.
We repaired to the Dundonnell for refreshment.
The Dundonnell has been steadily improved over the years.
I have little doubt that we probably also called in the Aultguish Inn as well. In fact I think this was the night of the fight.
Whilst we were quietly playing a newly explained board game called cat and mouse, (draughts board and pieces), a light appeared from the South and a lorry stopped.
The driver sat himself at the bar and drank on his own.
Shortly afterwards a light appeared from the North and a lorry stopped and the driver sat himself at the bar and drank on his own.
The two drivers soon struck up a conversation which rapidly deteriorated into a discussion, then an argument, and finally, a brawl. Our pieces were knocked flying.
The landlord solved the problem by going and fetching his wife who promptly evicted both offenders.
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12 miles. 5000ft. 8 hours.
October 1st 1981
Malcolm, Ian, Dave Hill
Rest Day
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Rest Day. We took the train from Garve to Skye and back. (Ian fell in love both ways.)
October 2nd 1981
Malcolm, Ian, Dave Hill
2 Munros + 1 Top
Toll Creagach, Tom a Choinich
(Affric)
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Today was a first for Glen Affric.
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We took the car as far as was then possible which was about a mile from the end of Loch Beinn a Mheadhoin and followed the northerly track along the Abhainn Gleann nam Fiadh for a mile before bearing right to tackle Toll Creagach direct up the Allt Coire an t'Sneachda.
There had been 3 to 4 inches of fresh snow last night on the tops over 1500ft.
Snow covered bracken is not the easiest terrain and when the gradient steepened considerably it became slow going, with a bit of backsliding.
Malcolm, with his business connections in fabrics and fibres sported the latest invention, a breathable “Gortex” jacket.
Unfortunately for him “Gortex” had not heard of the Scottish weather, and it leaked like a sieve. I lent him a rather thin, old, worn, waterproof which he wore over his Gore-Tex.
With his foot injury he was, of course, still wearing plimsolls (Translation: Pumps to you and me. Somewhat frail trainers to the current generation.)
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He looked a good advert for 'How not too climb' Magazine.
Heading for Tom a Choinnich
As we approached the highest point the breeze rose and stinging sleet greeted us.
Fortunately we hit the Trig Point absolutely spot on, just as well, as visibility was down to virtually nil.
From the summit of Toll Creagach we followed the easy ridge westwards down to a pass then up onto Tom a Choinnich.
Ian was all for continuing along the ridge to Carn Eighe which would have added another three miles and another 5 tops.
It would also have left us that much further to return.
Fortunately we opted to head straight down, and, as it was, it was going dark as we arrived at the bottom.
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We had been out 6 hours for 3700ft and 10 1/2 miles.
​After the 35 mile drive up to Garve and food and a bath we noted that Ullapool was only 30 miles North and that it was Friday night.
Maybe there was something on at the 'Fair Isles'. There was.
We spent the evening at a dance (which in Scotland means you drink and listen to Scottish Music).
Someone broke a glass on the dance floor and I went to retrieve it before it was stepped on in the melee.
I nearly got thrown out for my assistance, as the bouncer thought it was me who had broken it.
We accepted an invitation to coffee and all fell asleep whilst it was being made. Eventually, in the early hours we somehow got back to Garve.
Malcolm sporting a“Gortex Protector”
By the time we arrived back at the car (2½ hours later) the snow was melting, and this, together with the heavy rain, caused considerable flooding.
A plank bridge had been washed away and the minor road was under about a foot of water. Ian insisted in paddling and posed mid stream/road for a picture.
October 3rd 1981
Ian, Malcolm, Dave Hill
Geal Charn
(Cairngorm)
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Leaving our excellent holiday house at Garve, we settled the electric and headed for Inverness and the A9.
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The radio was on and the discussion was about 'The Peter Pan Syndrome' which for some reason some members of the party thought funny.
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Conversation turned to the holiday cottage we had used, and it came out that the electric had worked out at something like £.1 15½.
As the electric was 5p per unit, and as it was only measured in full units, I was intrigued to find out how the figure we paid ended up with a half pence at the end.
We were all rather tired, and it took us several miles to conclude that the bill should really have been £11.55. Somehow the decimal place had slipped a spot during the original calculation.
Ian undertook to remedy the defect. (I think he added a box of chocs as apology).
We diverted to Feshie Bridge, parked in woods near the Allt Ruadh and plodded up Geal Charn (Grid 884014).
The slopes were completely boulder covered. The problem was that deep soft snow covered everything and the ascent was a leg breaker.
There was some snow glare, and it poured down all the time.
The only memorable part was Malcolm's complaints as his poor ankle kept getting stuck between the hidden boulders at every step.
The glare he gave us outshone the glare from the snow. Don’t you just remember the funniest things.
5 miles. 2100ft. 2 hours 30 mins.
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The weeks tally was 12 Munroes and 5 tops. 54½ miles and 22800ft.
We returned home without major incident.