3. The Show Takes to the Road
1980. First serious trips, Black Mount, Starav, South and North Shiel Ridges, Ben Lui, Mamores, Grey Corries.
In which we start "bagging" in earnest, see a pine martin, get involved in a forest fire, and do seven Munros in a day for the first and last time. We invent a new form of hand-gliding from the summit trig of Schiehallion.
1980. The Show Takes To The Road. A decision is made.
A night out at Harrogate with Mal Newlyn discussed the pros and cons of considering taking on the Munros as a project. The verdict was unanimous and a 20 year plan was, unbeknowingly, hatched.
We knew that we would have to take Scottish weather far more seriously than that of, say, the Lakes. We considered that it might only be feasible to take to the hills one day in two, or at best two days in three, such was the inference from reading up on what may lay ahead.
20 years on, after 300 days spent on the Scottish Hills only one day produced no result, and even then we attained the summit ridge but failed to find the summit in blizzard and gales.
After the first two serious Munro trips undertaken by Malcolm and myself, Ian was approached and he was also immediately 'sold' on the project.
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This was the start of something really special !!!
Here are the Key Players in this Munro Story...
Later when we moved on to the Munro Tops, one of my son's David, became an important part of my climbing adventures:-
1980 The First Serious Trip.
The Black Mount (Malcom)
May 9-12th
6 Munros + 7 Tops
43 Miles and 13,800 ft.
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I cannot recollect exactly why we chose The Black Mount as our first target. Perhaps because of its easy access from the South, perhaps because it was near Glencoe with which we were slightly familiar, and perhaps because we had seen this stunning group of hills on our travels over Rannoch Moor.
Certainly it presented the possibility of picking up a good number of Munros and tops.
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Anyway, the die was cast. We would use the Inveroran Hotel, two miles along from Bridge of Orchy, as a base, and pitch a tent in Glen Etive so that we could do a circular route and maximise the use of our time.
Mal & Peugeot at Inverarnan
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May 10th 1980
Malcom
3 Munros and 6 Tops
Stob Ghabhar, Clach Leathad, Meall a Bhuiridh (The Black Mount)​
Today saw our first serious assault on the hills. We had the book and could see that apart from the actual Munros there were a large number of tops. Our early enthusiasm dictated that if it were "in the book" we would climb it. This enthusiasm lasted a whole day !!
From Victoria Bridge we headed up the Allt Toaig and took the Eastern Ridge of Aonach Eagach (not to be confused with its more dramatic namesake in Glencoe).
THIS WAS OUR FIRST TOP.
From here a mere stroll round the lip of a corrie with snow still sitting, corniced, on the rim, and Stob Ghabhar was ours.
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WE WERE MUNROING.
Mal on first Munro Stob Ghabhar
We headed North and along Loch Lomond with a feeling of anticipation and a real sense of adventure. (We were to discover the alternative, quicker route via Strathyre, at a later date.)
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In actual fact we really lost a day on the hills because the day we travelled up all we had time to do was head round into Glen Etive, pitch the tent, hide a couple of cans of beer in a steam, and return to the Inveroran for supper.
Two dentists were staying and Malcolm was a little doubtful of their sexual persuasion, so they were given a wide birth. The proprietress was very much the Joyce Grenfell type, Jolly Hockey Sticks and all that.
Two tops, Sron a Ghearrain and Stob a'Bhruaich Leith, were out of our way, but, undaunted, we trekked off to collect them.
We then skirted Stob Ghabhar again and took in the top of Sron nan Giubhas, then along the ridge of Aonach Mor and down and up onto Clach Leathad the days' second Munro.
Fortunately our quest for tops took us along to the top of Creise, which subsequently ousted Clach Leathad as the Munro.
Doubling back slightly we dropped down to the link with Meall a Bhuiridh, Munro 3, then along to Creag Dubh and along the nose descending to the Glen Etive road.
A short way along the road we found our two cans of ale, safely cached in a side stream.
Fortunately we went the extra yard and took in Creise
Half an hours walking brought us to the tent we had pitched, overlooking a gorge in the river. It had been a long day but we had enjoyed fine weather with extensive views, and patches of snow here and there.
Several brews replaced lost liquid.
A Pine Martin was spotted swimming across the river, my first and only sighting of the millenium!
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17½ miles. 6350ft.
Pine Martin Camp
We had a “canny” plan.
May 11th 1980.
Malcolm. Two Munros and 1 top.
Ben Starav. Glas Bheinn Mhor (Etive)
In the morning we left the tent pitched. We would return for it tomorrow but today we had a long walk down Etive (about 10 miles)...
...before we crossed to the small Croft of Coileitir where we bought a drink and some chocolate.
Enterprise at these out of the way spots is usually at a premium, not like the Austrian hills where refreshment can sometimes be obtained in the most unlikely places.
A long, steady, nose gained us the summit of Ben Starav where the trig point proved a welcome brew stop.
Unexpected refreshment
We fairly flew down the eastern ridge of Starav, but lost momentum on the ascent of Glas Bheinn Mhor.
​This was our last Munro of the day but we were still over 10 miles back to our accommodation.
We contoured over the nose of Sron na h-Iolaire, passed Lochan na h-Iuraiche and picked up the path past Loch Dochard back to Victoria Bridge.
The distance travelled and height gained was beginning to tell and Malcolm often recollects this section as having been very tiring although of no technical difficulty.
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The Inveroran Hotel was a very welcome sight.
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23 miles. 4700ft. Around 11.5 hours.
Nev on Starav
In the two days we had covered around 41 miles and ascended over 11000ft. ​We might well feel that we deserved a rest.
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After supper we were witness to a most spectacular forest fire. So spectacular in fact that it made headline news in English Newspapers and TV crews were sent to cover it !!.
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The whole forest around the shores of Loch Tulla caught fire, covering hundreds of acres.
The flames and the cracking of burning timber was like a scene from an inferno. We walked a little way down the road, and wondered how close it would come.
View from Glas Bheinn Mhor
Looking back to Starav
May 12th 1980.
Malcolm. One Munro.
Stob Dubh (Etive)
This morning the fire of last night was still ablaze, and had now spread to the heather. We were to see the flames lapping right onto the Rannoch Moor road itself, the road acting as a barrier. It raged out of control for the best part of two days leaving a pall of black smoke and burnt stumps.
The lone tree in the rock, which we look for now on every visit, survived by nature of its lofty perch on top of a split boulder.
All that remained for the last day, a scorcher, was to collect the tent from Etive, a quick steep leg aching burst up Stob Dubh’s 3129 ft and the trip home.
Stob Dubh
1980 Second Trip Shiel Ridge, June 7th to 10th
Malcom
May 9-12th
12 Munros + 4 Tops
38.5 Miles and 17,100 ft.
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Less than 4 weeks after our first trip we were back again with the intention this time of attempting the South Shiel Ridge.
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I note that in the short intervening period we had had a family trip to the Rainhill 150 year anniversary trials (Steam locos), spent a week caravanning in Yorkshire at Flamingo Park Zoo, started work on the garden summerhouse at 605, and that Marjorie had then spent 3 days in London with Hazel whilst Malcolm stayed over at 605.
June 7th 1980.
Malcolm. Two Munros and 1 Top.
An Caisteal. Beinn a'Chroin (South of Crianlarich)
Again up Lomondside, but this time parking short of Crianlarich at Derrydaroch to tackle An Caisteal by way of Stob Ghlas.
The climb started with blue sky and no wind. It was warm. It was here we observed a phenonomon I have not seen since. A thin mist rose from a small grassy hollow, and as it rose it took on more and more substance.
By the time it had risen 100ft or so it was several metres wide, and it trailed away for over a mile, developing into a cloud as it did so.​
From An Caisteal we continued onto Beinn a'Chroin then dropped down to follow the River Falloch back to the road. By now it was pouring with rain.
That night we stayed in Fort William at the Nevis Bank Hotel, where I purchased an oil painting of Glencoe.
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The following day would see us in Glen Shiel where I had been inspired so much in 1976 on the Venture trip to Skye.
It would also see us introduced, for the first time, to the joys of the Cluanie Inn, set as it is miles from anywhere at the western end of Loch Cluanie.
At this time the road was not the racetrack it was to become. In fact, single track was still a hallmark of the highlands.
From Beinn a'Chroin looking to Stob Binnein
Cluanie
June 8th 1980.
Malcolm. 7 Munros.
South Shiel Ridge.
Creag a'Mhaim. Druim Shionnach. Aonach air Chrith.
Maol Chinndearg.
Sgurr an Doire Leathain.
Sgurr an Lochain. Creag nan Damh
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Early morning saw us parking by the Cluanie Inn. Taking the track across the end of the Loch for a mile, to a bend, we then ascended Creag a Mhaim the first of the 7 Munros making up the South Shiel Ridge.
This was bagging in fine style. 7 in a day is as good as it gets. The day was showery but we still enjoyed good views from time to time.
One difficulty with this ridge is that you end up a long way from your start point, but today we were lucky enough to get a lift from a French family who deposited us back at the Inn. ​
We had 6100 ft and 13½ miles for the days walking.
We stayed at the Cluanie for the night, our first visit to what was to become one of our favourite haunts. A place of many magical memories.
At this time the accommodation for walkers was in bunk rooms and the charge was £5 per night including breakfast. A torch was provided as the lights went out when the generator was switched off at around 1am.
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Daniel Stobbart (Danny) and his wife were to be our hosts on a number of occasions At this time the Hotel was owned by the local Estate. Danny came to refer to us as "The wild men of the hills".
The Cluanie breakfast is justly famous.
Aonach air Chrith from Druim Shionnach
Looking back from Aonach air Chrith
Towards Cluanie from Aonach air Chrith
June 9th 1980.
Malcolm. 2 Munros + 3 Tops.
Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe. Sgurr Fhuaran
(Five Sisters of Kintail)
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Today we parked half way down the old military road to Shiel Bridge. No fast racetrack as yet.
Taking a break in the wooded slopes on the North side of the Glen we ascended the North Shiel Ridge to the col East of Coirean nan Spainteach (Peak of the Spaniard).
It was here that Malcolm found a map of the area which was to accompany him on many campaigns. We were set for the Five Sisters of Kintail and the weather was bright and sunny all day.
We followed the ridge as far as Sgurr nan Saighead and I noted that Sgurr na Carnach felt like a Munro but wasn’t one. This has now been remedied as it has since been promoted.
Once descended, we found that the bridge marked over the River Shiel did not in fact exist and we had to follow the bank a mile upstream to find a place were we could wade across.
It may have been today that we first met the unfriendly horse that lives hereabouts.
A second night was spent at the Cluanie.
11 miles. 4950ft.
Fhuaran from Saighead
On Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe
June 10th 1980.
Malcolm. 1 Munro.
Carn Ghluasaid
(North of Loch Cluanie)
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As we were returning home we had selected a 'clinical' hill for the last day.
Parking alongside Loch Cluanie about 5 miles East of the Hotel we followed the excellent stalking zigzags up Carn Ghluasaid.
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We left the car at 9.30am and were on top by 11.00.
We descended at a run reaching the car by 11.55am which, allowing for a short stop on top, meant a descent time of just 45 minutes.
We had been attacked by a Ptarmigan defending its chicks.
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4 miles. 2500ft. 2hours 25mins.
Ptarmigan
1980 Third Trip, Glen Roy Caravan, September 26th to October 2nd. 13 Munros + 9 Tops. 43.5 miles. 1770ft. Malcom. Ian. This was Ian's first serious 'bagging' trip.
Ian. Malcom.
September 27th 1980.
2 Munros
Beinn a Cheleibh. Ben Lui.
(Tyndrum)
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We parked on the Tyndrum to Oban road about 8 miles West of Tyndrum. Crossing the railway and using woodland tracks we ascended Beinn a Chleibh and moved straight onto Ben Lui.
It was clear all day except just at the top of Lui. The descent was a little dodgy in parts being down a mossy cliff face.
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I have a lingering feeling that I may have attempted Ben Lui in 1958 with Brian Downs, but that day had poor visibility and who knows.
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8½ miles. 3700ft.
September 28th 1980.
Ian Malcolm. 6 Munros and 3 Tops.
Mullach nan Coirean. Stob Ban.
Sgurr a'Mhaim. Am Bodach.
Stob Choir a'Chairn. An Gearanach.
(Mamores).
It was clear and sunny all day.
We started down Glen Nevis, parking at Polldubh before taking the forest track to the Allt a Choire Dheirg and breaking up onto the north east ridge of Mullach nan Coirean. We circled round to Stob Ban and drifted out onto the spur to Sgurr a Mhaim (an airy ridge), before finishing with Am Bodach and An Garbhanach.
The way back was alongside the Water of Nevis which we had to cross on a double wire suspension bridge with no floor to it.
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It was dark by the time we finished and we had taken nearly 10 hours against Naismiths 8.
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15 miles. 6500ft. 9hrs 45mins.
We made our way back to Glen Roy to the caravan we were staying in at Bohenie.
The back bar at the Roybridge Hotel was a lively place and we watched a good TV punch up at a boxing match. It was when Marvin Hagler beat Alan Minter to win the World Middleweight Championship.
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I remember losing my car keys somehow and walking back to the van while others rode. There is no justice in life.
Ian (on left) and horses, at Bohenie
September 29th 1980.
One of those rare rest days.
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Malcolm had to return home today, and it was pretty foul and wet anyway. Ian and I visited the Fort William Museum which featured a number of artefacts to do with Bonny Prince Charlie.
Ian purchased sox I think, for his intended, from Fort William Railway Station.
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In the early days the station had a good egg and chips café, and the toilets and showers were well used.
September 30th 1980.
Ian.
4 Munros + 6 Tops.
Sgurr Choinnich Mor. Stob Coire an Laoigh.
Stob Choire Claurigh. Stob Ban. (Grey Corries.)
This was another long day but the weather was good, with sunshine, views, and little wind.
We had to go by way of Spean Bridge to attain the minor road on the south side of the River Spean. This was followed past Corriechoille to the edge of a wood close by a disused tramway where we could park.
We followed the gap in the trees onto the long north ridge of Stob Coire Easain. Saving the summit till we had taken in the more outlying Sgurr Choinnich Mor we then mopped up a number of Tops to Stob Coire na Ceannain, the Top at the eastern end.
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Whilst on Stob Coire an Laoigh we enjoyed an enthralling hour over lunch watching a herd of between 100 and 150 deer in the corrie below.
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To complete the day we took in Stob Ban before dropping to the Lairig Leacach to follow the good track out to our start point.
We had been out 10 hours for 15 miles and 5000ft.
October 1st 1980.
Ian.
1 Munro.
Schiehallion.
​We parked at Braes of Foss and ascended and descended by the same route heading due west then following the boundary up onto the main crest.
The going was very heathery and on top it was blowing a full gale.
You couldn’t hear yourself shout, and we took turns to cling to the trig point and allow the wind to stretch us out horizontally.
There were no views.
Prior to 1976 my personal Munro total was 7.
During 1976-79 inclusive it had moved on to 14.
By the end of 1980 I was on 45, the total having been trebled during the year.
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It was to almost double again in the next 12 months.
Ian tries hard not to let go of the trig.
